PRACTICAL  GUIDI 


Yellowstone  National  Park 


CONTAINING 


ILLUSTRATIONS,  MAPS,  DISTANCES,  ALTITUDES, 
AND  GEYSER  TIME  TABLES. 


BY 

A.  B.  GUPTILL. 


ILLUSTRATED  AND  PUBLISHED  BY 

F.  Jay  Haynes  & Bro., 

Official  Photographers  of  the  Northern  Pacific  Railroad, 
No.  392  Jackson  Street, 

ST.  PAUL,  MINN. 


Copyrighted,  1890, 

BY 

F.  JAY  HAYNES  & BRO., 

St.  Paul,  Minn. 


Pioneer  Press  Company. 


CONTENTS. 


PAGE. 

Yellowstone  National  Park, 7,  8 

Practical  Information,  9,  10 

Livingston,  Mont.,  to  Mammoth  Hot  Springs,  . 10-14 

Gate  of  the  Mountains  — Paradise  Valley  — Emigrant  Peak  — 

“Yankee  Jim’’  Canyon  — Cinnabar  Mountain  — Ride  to  Hot 
Springs  — Boiling  River. 

Mammoth  Hot  Springs  Hotel, 14 

Camp  Sheridan, 15 

Rules  and  Regulations  of  the  Park,  ....  16,  17 

Mammoth  Hot  Springs, 18-24 

Description  — McCartney’s  Cave  — Liberty  Cap  — Devil’s 
Thumb  — Minerva  Terrace — Jupiter  Terrace — Pulpit  Ter- 
race— Cupid’s  Cave  — Narrow  Gauge  Terrace  — Orange  Gey- 
ser— Devil’s  Kitchen  — Bath  Lake. 

Side  Trips  from  Mammoth  Hot  Springs,  . . . 25-29 

Middle  Gardiner  Falls  — Bunsen’s  Peak  — Mt.  Evarts — East 
Gardiner  Falls  — Yancey’s  — Tower  Falls  — Petrified  Trees. 

Tour  of  the  Park, 31-107 

Golden  Gate  and  Rustic  Falls, 31 

Swan  Lake  Basin, 32 

Gallatin  Mountains  — Bell’s  Peak  — Quadrant  Mountain  — Mt. 

Holmes  — Electric  Peak  — Indian  and  Obsidian  Creeks. 

Obsidian  Cliff, 32-34 

Beaver  Lake,  and  Drive  to  Norris,  ....  34-36 

Road  from  Norris  Basin  to  Falls  and  Canyon,  36 

Virginia  Cascades  and  “ Bend  in  the  Road.” 

Norris  Geyser  Basin, 37-42 

Steam  Vent  — Minute  Man  — Black  Growler  — Mud  Geyser  — 

Emerald  Pool  — New  Crater — Monarch  Geyser— Gibbon  Paint 
Pots. 

Gibbon  Canyon  and  Falls, 42-45 

Mt.  Schurz  — Monument  Geyser  Basin  — Beryl  Spring  — View 
of  the“Tetons” — Beaver  Colony. 

Lower  Geyser  Basin, 46-50 

Hotel  — Fountain  Geyser  — Mammoth  Paint  Pots  — Great 
Fountain  Geyser. 


3 


4 


CONTENTS. 


PAGE. 

Midway  Geyser  Basin, 50-55 

Excelsior  Geyser  — Turquois  Spring  — Prismatic  Lake. 

Upper  Geyser  Basin, 57-80 

Old  Faithful — Bee  Hive  — Giantess— Lion,  Lioness,  Cubs  — 

Sawmill  Group  — Grand  and  Turban  — Beauty  Spring --Eco- 
nomic — Giant  — Oblong  — Grotto  — Riverside  — Fan  and  Mor- 
tar-Splendid— White  Pyramid  — Punch  Bowl  — Black  Sand 
Basin — Specimen  Lake  — Castle  Geyser  and  Well  — Morning 
Glory  Spring  — Artemisia  Spring— Biscuit  Basin —Sapphire 
Pool  — Soda  Geyser  — Black  Pearl  — Silver  Globe. 

Geyser  Time  Table, 81 

Hayden  Valley  Road, 82-84 

Lower  Basin  to  Falls  and  Canyon,  via  Mary's  Mountain,  Mary’s 
Lake,  Alum  Creek  and  Hayden  Valley. 

Upper  Geyser  Basin  to  Yellowstone  Lake  (via 

Shoshone  Lake  and  Geyser  Basin),  . . . 85-90 

Kepler’s  Cascades  — Lone  Star  Geyser  — Continental  Divide  — 

Shoshone  Geysers  and  Hot  Springs  — Union  Geyser  — Sho- 
shone Lake  — Snake,  or  Lewis  River  — Road  to  Thumb  Bay 
(Yellowstone  Lake). 

Yellowstone  Lake  and  Vicinity, 92-94 

Thumb  Bay  and  Hot  Springs  — Paint  Pots  — Fishing  Cone  — 

“Outlet” — Natural  Bridge  — Hoodoo  Region. 

Yellowstone  Lake  to  Falls  and  Canyon,  . . 95,  96 

Mud  Geysers — Mud  Caldron  — Nez  Perces’  Ford  — Sulphur 
Mountain  and  Springs. 

Upper  Falls  of  the  Yellowstone, 98 

Cascade  Falls  and  Grotto  Pool, 98 

Great  Falls  and  Grand  Canyon, 99-107 

Brink  of  Falls — Point  Lookout  — Artists’  Point  — Red  Rock  — 
Inspiration  Point — Hot  Springs — Eagle’s  Nest. 

Mount  Washburn, 108-110 

Park  in  Midwinter, 112-117 

Fauna  and  Flora 118,  119 

Fish  and  Fishing, 119,  120 

Table  of  Distances 121 

Elevations, 121 

Meteorological  Observations, 122 


ILLUSTRATIONS. 


PAGE. 

Great  Falls  of  the  Yellowstone, Frontispiece 

Liberty  Cap  and  Hotel, 13 

Minerva  Terrace,  Mammoth  Hot  Springs,  ....  22 

Tower  Falls, 28 

East  Entrance  to  Golden  Gate, 30 

Obsidian  Cliff, 33 

Virginia  Cascades, 35 

Minute  Geyser,  Norris  Basin, 38 

Mammoth  Paint  Pots, 49 

Excelsior  Geyser,  Firehole  River, 51 

Map  of  the  Upper  Geyser  Basin, 56 

Old  Faithful  Geyser, 60 

Giant  Geyser, 67 

Crater  of  Oblong  Geyser, 69 

Splendid  Geyser, 72 

Castle,  Bee  Hive  and  Old  Faithful  Geysers,  ....  76 

Sapphire  Pool,  Biscuit  Basin, 79 

Hayden  Valley,  Between  Lake  and  Falls, 83 

Lone  Star  Geyser, 86 

Shoshone  Lake, 88 

Yellowstone  Lake,  Hot  Spring  Cone, 91 

Rapids  Above  Upper  Falls, 97 

Point  Lookout  and  Great  Falls, joo 

Grand  Canyon  of  the  Yellowstone, 104 

Snowshoe  Party  Passing  Obsidian  Cliff, in 

Foliage  Near  Geysers  in  Winter, 114 

Great  Falls  of  Yellowstone  in  Winter, 116 

Map  of  Yellowstone  Park, Third  Page  Cover 

5 


QREAT  FAL^S  OF  THE  YELLOWSTONE,  360  pKET. 


^ellQv^sforje-  F)<af 


The  Rocky  Mountains,  extending  many  hundred 
miles  north  and  south  through  the  western  part  of  the 
United  States,  are  famous  for  their  attractions  to  trav- 
elers seeking  health,  pleasure  or  recreation.  In  North- 
western Wyoming,  in  the  midst  of  the  Rockies,  is 
located  Yellowstone  Park.  In  1872,  by  act  of  Congress, 
this  interesting  locality  was  “set  apart  as  a national 
resort  and  pleasure  ground  for  the  enjoyment  of  the 
people.”  From  year  to  year  appropriations  are  made 
for  its  maintenance,  improvement  and  protection.  The 
reservation  embraces  an  area  of  3,575  square  miles, 
being  55  miles  east  and  west  by  65  miles  north  and 
south,  chiefly  in  Wyoming,  but  overlapping  to  a small 
extent  the  territorial  boundaries  of  Montana  on  the 
north  and  Idaho  on  the  west.  No  valley  within  its 
boundary  has  an  elevation  less  than  6,000  feet,  while  the 
surrounding  snow-clad  peaks  have  an  altitude  of  12,000 
to  14,000  feet  above  sea  level.  Efforts  are  being  made 
to  induce  Congress  to  enlarge  the  Park  20  miles  on 
the  east  and  20  miles  on  the  south,  thereby  not  only 
embracing  the  summer  haunts  of  the  few  remaining 
species  of  American  game  that  inhabit  the  Park  in  win- 
ter, but  protecting  the  forests  at  the  headwaters  of  the 
largest  rivers  in  the  United  States,  the  Snake  River,  a 
branch  of  the  Columbia,  and  the  Yellowstone,  which 


7 


8 


YELLOWSTONE  NATIONAL  PARK. 


flows  into  the  Missouri.  No  other  portion  of  the  globe 
has  so  great  a variety  of  natural  wonders  at  once  so  con- 
centrated and  accessible.  The  railway  brings  you  to  the 
Park  boundary,  and  throughout  the  reserve  the  Govern- 
ment has  constructed  substantial  wagon  roads,  leading  to 
all  objects  of  interest.  Hotels  are  located  in  various 
parts  of  the  Park  convenient  for  travelers. 

The  wonders  in  this  region  are  the  geysers,  which 
throw  columns  of  hot  water  50  to  300  feet  in  the  air, 
playing  at  intervals  of  one  minute  to  every  fourteen  days. 
The  most  remarkable  is  Old  Faithful,  having  an  eruption 
every  hour,  throwing  a three-foot  column  of  hot  water 
150  feet  high,  and  located  within  a few  hundred  feet  of 
the  hotel  in  the  Upper  Geyser  Basin.  Excelsior  Geyser, 
the  largest  in  the  world,  throws  a column  of  hot  water 
50  feet  in  diameter  250  to  300  feet  high  several  times  a 
day.  Fifty  other  large  and  interesting  geysers,  paint 
pots,  pools  and  boiling  springs  are  found  in  the  geyser 
basins.  Beautiful  terrace-building  hot  springs,  colored 
beyond  description,  occupying  over  170  acres  of  ground, 
form  the  attractions  at  the  entrance  to  the  Park.  Yellow- 
stone Lake,  12  x 20  miles  in  size,  is  the  largest  body  of 
water  in  America  at  this  altitude,  — 8,000  feet.  The 
Grand  Canyon  and  Upper  and  Lower  Falls  surpass 
anything  of  the  kind  on  the  continent  — 10  miles  of 
canyon  averaging  1,500  feet  in  depth,  pronounced  by 
travelers  to  be  the  most  brilliantly  colored  landscape  in 
existence.  Mountains  of  volcanic  glass,  forests  of  petri- 
factions, valleys,  cataracts  and  canyons  without  number, 
jnake  this  the  wonderland  of  the  world, 


PRACTICAL  INFORMATION, 


9 


PRACTICAL  INFORMATION. 

EXPENSE  OF  THE  TRIP.  WHEN  TO  VISIT.  HOW  TO 
REACH  THE  PARK. 

At  many  eastern  and  western  points  coupon  tickets 
can  be  purchased  which  include  rail  and  stage  transpor- 
tation to  and  through  the  Park,  also  sleeping  and  dining 
car  accommodations,  and  board  at  the  various  hotels 
within  the  Park.  These  coupon  tickets  include  all  trav- 
eling expenses,  and  are  used  by  nearly  all  tourists. 
Raymond  & Whitcomb  excursions  and  Cook’s  tours 
embrace  all  the  above  privileges,  being  in  charge  of 
well-informed  conductors,  and  are  liberally  patronized. 
Coupon  books  can  be  purchased  at  St.  Paul,  Minneapo- 
lis, Duluth,  Tacoma,  Seattle  or  Portland,  including  all 
necessary  expense  to  the  Park  and  return  for  $110. 
From  Livingston,  Mont.,  and  return  for  $40.  Five 
days  are  required  to  visit  all  prominent  places  within  the 
Park,  which  are  provided  for  in  the  coupon  tickets. 
Parties  desiring  to  prolong  their  stay  can  procure  re- 
duced rates  at  the  hotels  after  the  expiration  of  the  ticket, 
the  regular  rate  being  $4  per  day.  The  railway  part  of 
the  ticket  is  good  until  October  1st.  Credit  letters  are 
issued  for  any  extra  accommodations  the  tourists  may 
desire  while  south  of  the  Mammoth  Hot  Springs,  where 
valuables  may  be  safely  deposited  until  their  return. 
Camping  parties  can  secure  complete  outfits  at  the  Mam- 
moth Hot  Springs,  such  as  guides,  tents,  provisions, 
cooks,  saddle  and  pack  horses,  etc.  The  expense  of  a 
party  of  three  camping  will  be  about  $20  per  day;  they 
can  visit  a few  remote  places  in  the  Park  not  included  in 
the  regular  tour,  and  these  trips  are  especially  recom- 
mended for  gentlemen  desiring  a few  weeks’  “ roughing 


IO 


YELLOWSTONE  NATIONAL  PARK, 


it.”  August  and  September  are  the  best  months  for 
camping,  there  being  little  choice  in  the  time  for  the 
regular  tour,  except  that  in  June  and  September  you 
escape  the  rush  of  July  and  August. 

The  Hotels  of  the  Park,  seven  in  number,  Mam- 
moth Hot  Springs,  Norris  Geyser,  Lower  Geyser,  Up- 
per Geyser,  Shoshone  Lake,  Yellowstone  Lake  and 
Grand  Canyon,  are  under  one  management,  and  are  lo- 
cated at  convenient  distances  throughout  the  Park,  in 
close  proximity  to  the  various  objects  of  interest. 


LIVINGSTON,  MONT.,  TO  MAMMOTH  HOT 
SPRINGS. 

Livingston,  Mont.,  on  the  main  line  of  the 
Northern  Pacific  Railroad,  is  about  midway  between  St. 
Paul  and  the  Pacific  Coast;  the  Park  Branch  Railroad 
is  constructed  from  Livingston,  51  miles  south,  to  the 
Park  boundary,  following  the  valley  of  the  Yellowstone 
the  entire  distance.  Livingston,  an  enterprising  Mon- 
tana city,  is  located  at  the  base  of  the  Snowy  and  Belt 
range,  a spur  of  the  Rocky  Mountains.  Three  miles 
from  Livingston  the  road  passes  through  the  first  can- 
yon of  the  Yellowstone,  or  Gate  of  the  Mountains, 
forming  a natural  entrance  into  the  Upper  Yellowstone 
Valley.  The  canyon  is  over  one  mile  long,  just  wide 
enough  to  comfortably  admit  of  the  road  and  river,  the 
mountain  walls  rising  some  2,000  feet  perpendicularly  on 
either  side.  Passing  through  the  first  canyon,  Paradise 
Valley  is  immediately  entered,  which  extends  from  the 
mouth  of  the  canyon  some  30  miles  up  the  river,  and  is 
from  7 to  12  miles  wide.  This  valley  has  been  settled 


LIVINGSTON,  MONT.,  TO  MAMMOTH  HOT  SPRINGS. 


II 


by  ranchmen  for  twenty-five  years,  being  exceedingly 
fertile,  easily  irrigated,  and  especially  adapted  to  stock 
raising.  On  the  east  side  of  the  valley,  the  entire  dis- 
tance, a very  picturesque  mountain  range  is  seen,  con- 
stantly changing  as  the  train  moves  south;  the  hills  on 
the  west  are  not  as  abrupt,  but  are  very  interesting  from  a 
geological  point  of  view.  Emigrant  Peak,  elevation 
10,629,  rising  some  6,000  feet  above  the  valley,  is  a 
prominent  mountain  located  near  the  south  end  of  Para- 
dise Valley.  Emigrant  Gulch,  a once  noted  placer  min- 
ing field,  is  still  producing  the  precious  metal.  Agricul- 
tural pursuits  are  not  followed  further  up  the  Yellowstone 
than  Paradise  Valley  — stock  raising  and  mining  being 
the  chief  industries  above  this  altitude. 

The  Second,  or  Yankee  Jim,  Canyon. — Forty 
miles  from  Livingston  the  road  passes  through  the 
second,  or  Yankee  Jim,  canyon  of  the  Yellowstone. 
Visitors  from  the  north  are  obliged  to  pass  through  the 
second  canyon.  For  several  years  prior  to  the  build- 
ing of  the  railroad  an  enterprising  individual,  named 
“ Yankee  Jim,”  having  constructed  a wagon  road  through 
the  canyon  at  quite  an  expense,  enjoyed  a lucrative  busi- 
ness in  collecting  toll  from  each  visitor  to  the  Park. 
Yankee  Jim  is  still  located  at  the  south  end  of  the  can- 
yon, having  many  guests  during  the  tourist  season,  who 
find  here  the  best  of  trout  and  grayling  fishing,  equal  to 
any  of  the  many  excellent  fishing  stations  along  the 
Yellowstone.  The  second  canyon  is  far  more  picturesque 
than  the  first,  the  mountain  walls  rising  higher,  and  the 
gorge,  within  which  the  river  is  compressed,  is  scarcely  a 
hundred  feet  wide.  An  excellent  view  can  be  had  from 
the  rear  platform  of  the  cars, 


12 


YELLOWSTONE  NATIONAL  PARK. 


Cinnabar,  Mont.,  the  terminus  of  the  Park 
Branch  Railroad,  51  miles  south  from  Livingston,  de- 
rives its  name  from  Cinnabar  Mountain,  a conspicuous 
landmark  on  the  Upper  Yellowstone.  As  the  train 
passes  along  its  base,  from  the  car  window  is  plainly 
seen  the  Devil’s  Slide,  consisting  of  two  walls  of  trap- 
rock  some  30  feet  apart,  extending  up  the  mountain 
nearly  2,000  feet,  embracing  a bright  reddish-colored 
mineral  resembling  cinnabar.  From  the  station  to  the 
Mammoth  Hot  Springs  Hotel,  seven  miles  distant,  con- 
veyances consisting  of  the  six-horse  tallyho  coach,  the 
concord,  hacks,  carriages  and  surreys  are  used.  The 
equipment  for  this  transfer  is  equal  to  any  found  at 
eastern  or  western  resorts.  The  ride  is  especially  pleas- 
ant contrasted  with  the  necessary  railway  journey  to 
reach  this  region.  The  character  of  the  mountainous 
country  and  the  necessity  of  ascending  nearly  2,000  feet 
in  so  short  a distance  render  it  impracticable  for  a railroad 
to  be  constructed  further  south.  The  elevation  of  the 
Mammoth  Hot  Springs,  6,387  feet,  is  nearly  2,000  feet 
higher  than  Cinnabar.  The  entrance  to  the  Park  is  near 
the  mouth  of  the  Gardiner  River,  the  confluence  of  the 
Gardiner  and  Yellowstone  rivers  being  on  the  northern 
boundary.  The  carriage  road  is  along  the  Gardiner 
River,  a characteristic  mountain  stream,  clear  and  rapid, 
and  a favorite  resort  for  the  angler.  Within  two  miles 
of  the  Mammoth  Hot  Springs  the  road  leaves  the  river 
for  the  ascent  of  the  mountain.  This  part  of  the  journey 
is  most  tedious,  the  hotel  being  some  800  feet  above  the 
Gardiner;  however,  the  magnificent  mountain  scen- 
ery attracts  the  traveler,  and  is  especially  fine  when  seen 
from  the  top  of  a tallyho. 


14 


YELLOWSTONE  NATIONAL  PARK. 


Boiling  River  empties  into  Gardiner  River  a few 
hundred  feet  above  the  second  crossing;  it  is  the  congre- 
gation of  all  the  waters  from  the  Mammoth  Hot  Springs, 
and  is  famous  from  the  fact  that  fish  may  be  caught  in 
the  cold  stream  and  cooked  in  the  hot,  without  changing 
your  position. 

Mammoth  Hot  Springs  Hotel,  the  largest  hotel 
in  the  Park,  400  feet  long,  has  accommodations  for  350 
guests.  Hot  water  from  the  Mammoth  Hot  Springs  is 
conducted  to  the  house,  while  a more  distant  cold  moun- 
tain stream  affords  an  ample  supply  throughout,  and  an 
effective  fire  protection.  The  hotel  is  also  supplied  with 
incandescent  lights  and  all  modern  improvements.  A 
Western  Union  telegraph  office  is  located  in  the  house, 
and  the  telephone  connects  with  all  the  hotels  through- 
out the  Park.  The  hotel  is  located  on  a plateau  some 
800  feet  above  Gardiner  River,  affording  a commanding 
view  from  its  large  verandas.  The  Mammoth  Hot 
Springs,  with  their  beautifully  colored  terraces,  are  but  a 
short  distance  away.  Those  who  do  not  visit  the 
Springs  upon  going  into  the  Park  improve  the  oppor- 
tunity when  returning,  as  ample  time  is  given.  Trunks 
and  baggage  are  generally  brought  to  the  Mammoth  Hot 
Springs  Hotel.  Carriages  carrying  three,  five  or  seven 
persons  are  used  south  of  the  Hot  Springs,  and  the  first 
evening  is  employed  in  getting  a congenial  party  to- 
gether. Only  the  necessary  baggage  is  carried  through 
the  Park,  as  the  light  conveyances  necessary  for  a com- 
fortable ride  will  not  admit  of  any  other  than  hand  bag- 
gage. The  driver  acts  as  guide  for  the  party,  and  the  small 
perquisite  he  generally  receives  for  such  services  is  well 
invested.  Many  of  the  drivers  have  been  in  the  Park 


CAMP  SHERIDAN. 


15 


five  or  six  years,  and  through  it  several  hundred  times. 
The  remarkable  record  of  the  stage  company  in  convey- 
ing over  40,000  tourists  without  a single  accident  is 
commendable.  The  drivers,  though  generally  typical 
western  men,  are  gentlemen. 

Camp  Sheridan. — At  the  Mammoth  Hot  Springs  is 
stationed  a company  of  United  States  cavalry,  the  com 
manding  officer  being  superintendent  of  the  Park.  During 
the  summer  months  cantonments  are  scattered  throughout 
the  Park,  consisting  of  a non-commissioned  officer  and 
two  to  four  cavalrymen;  their  duties  being  to  protect  the 
various  objects  of  interest  from  vandalism,  see  that  no 
specimens  are  removed,  that  no  hunters  enter  the  Park, 
and  to  prevent  the  spreading  of  forest  fires,  generally 
originating  from  camping  parties.  The  Park  is  entirely 
free  from  questionable  characters,  owing  to  the  rigid  en- 
forcement of  the  orders  of  the  commanding  officer,  his 
policy  being  to  allow  no  one  in  the  Park  unless  there  for 
business  or  pleasure.  Several  scouts  are  employed  by 
the  Government,  who  roam  over  the  entire  area;  they 
look  after  the  game  chiefly,  their  occupation  being  simi- 
lar to  that  of  a detective;  they  do  not  travel  on  the 
regular  roads,  and  are  liable  to  come  upon  the  violator 
of  the  regulations  at  any  moment.  Much  credit  is  due 
the  military  and  scouts  for  their  efficient  efforts  in  pro- 
tecting the  Park. 


i6 


YELLOWSTONE  NATIONAL  PARK. 


RULES  AND  REGULATIONS  OF  THE  YELLOW- 
STONE NATIONAL  PARK. 

Department  of  the  Interior, 

Washington,  July  i,  1889. 

1.  It  is  forbidden  to  remove  or  injure  the  sediments 
or  incrustations  around  the  geysers,  hot  springs  or  steam 
vents;  or  to  deface  the  same  by  written  inscriptions  or 
otherwise;  or  to  throw  any  substance  into  the  springs  or 
geyser  vents;  or  to  injure  or  disturb  in  any  manner  any 
of  the  mineral  deposits,  natural  curiosities  or  wonders 
within  the  Park. 

2.  It  is  forbidden  to  ride  or  drive  upon  any  of  the 
geyser  or  hot  spring  formations,  or  to  turn  loose  stock 
to  graze  in  their  vicinity. 

3.  It  is  forbidden  to  cut  or  injure  any  growing 
timber.  Camping  parties  will  be  allowed  to  use  dead  or 
fallen  timber  for  fuel. 

4.  Fires  should  be  lighted  only  when  necessary  and 
completely  extinguished  when  not  longer  required.  The 
utmost  care  should  be  exercised  at  all  times  to  avoid 
setting  fire  to  the  timber  and  grass. 

5.  Hunting,  capturing,  injuring  or  killing  any  bird 
or  animal  within  the  Park  is  prohibited.  The  outfits  of 
persons  found  hunting  or  in  possession  of  game  killed  in 
the  Park  will  be  subject  to  seizure  and  confiscation. 

6.  Fishing  with  nets,  seines,  traps,  or  by  the  use  of 
drugs  or  explosives,  or  in  any  other  way  than  with  hook 
and  line,  is  prohibited.  Fishing  for  purposes  of  mer- 
chandise or  profit  is  forbidden  by  law. 

7.  No  person  will  be  permitted  to  reside  perma- 
nently or  to  engage  in  any  business  in  the  Park  without 


RULES  And  regulations  of  the  park. 


1 7 


permission  in  writing  from  the  Department  of  the  In- 
terior. The  superintendent  may  grant  authority  to  com- 
petent persons  to  act  as  guides  and  revoke  the  same  at 
his  discretion. 

8.  No  drinking  saloon  or  bar-room  will  be  permitted 
within  the  limits  of  the  Park. 

9.  Private  notices  or  advertisements  shall  not  be 
posted  nor  displayed  within  the  Park,  except  such  as 
may  be  necessary  for  the  convenience  and  guidance  of 
the  public  upon  buildings  upon  leased  ground. 

10.  Persons  who  render  themselves  obnoxious  by 
disorderly  conduct  or  bad  behavior,  or  who  violate  any 
of  the  foregoing  rules,  will  be  summarily  removed  from 
the  Park  under  authority  of  the  statute  setting  apart  the 
Park  “as  a pleasuring  ground  for  the  people,”  and  pro- 
viding that  it  “shall  be  under  the  exclusive  control  of 
the  secretary  of  the  interior,  whose  duty  it  shall  be  to 
make  and  publish  such  rules  and  regulations  as  he  shall 
deem  necessary  or  proper,”  and  who  “generally  shall 
be  authorized  to  take  all  such  measures  as  shall  be 
necessary  or  proper  to  fully  carry  out  the  object  and  pur- 
poses of  this  act.” 

John  W.  Noble, 

Secretary  of  the  Interior. 


i8 


YELLOWSTONE  NATIONAL  PARK. 


MAMMOTH  HOT  SPRINGS. 

The  quite  recent  volcanic  eruptions  in  New  Zealand 
which  destroyed  the  famous  pink  terraces  of  Rotoma- 
hana  leaves  the  Mammoth  Hot  Springs  of  Yellowstone 
Park  without  a rival  as  the  most  remarkable  develop- 
ment of  thermal  action  to  be  found  in  the  world  — occupy- 
ing over  170  acres,  with  13  distinct  terraces  and  over  50 
active  springs.  Dr.  Hayden,  in  his  report  for  1871,  de- 
scribes these  springs  as  follows:  “ The  wonderful  trans- 
parency of  the  water  surpasses  anything  of  the  kind  I 
have  ever  seen  in  any  other  portion  of  the  world.  The 
sky,  with  the  smallest  cloud  that  flits  across  it,  is  re- 
flected in  its  limpid  depths,  and  the  ultramarine  colors, 
more  vivid  than  the  sea,  are  greatly  heightened  by  the 
constant,  gentle  vibrations.  One  can  look  down  into 
the  clear  depths  and  see  with  perfect  distinctness  the 
minutest  ornament  on  the  inner  sides  of  the  basins;  and 
the  exquisite  beauty  of  the  coloring  and  infinite  variety 
of  form  baffle  any  attempt  to  portray  them  either  with 
pen  or  brush.  And  then,  too,  around  the  borders  of 
these  springs,  especially  those  of  rather  low  temperature, 
and  on  the  sides  and  bottoms  of  the  numerous  little 
channels  of  the  streams  that  flow  into  these  springs, 
there  is  a striking  variety  of  the  most  vivid  colors.  I 
can  only  compare  them  to  our  most  brilliant  aniline 
dyes  — various  shades  of  red,  from  the  brightest  scarlet 
to  a bright  rose  tint;  also,  yellow,  from  deep  bright  sul- 
phur through  all  the  shades  to  light  cream  color.  There 
are  also  various  shades  of  green  from  the  peculiar  vege- 
tation. These  springs  are  also  filled  with  minute  vege- 
table forms,  which,  under  the  microscope,  prove  to  be 


MAMMOTH  HOT  SPRINGS. 


19 


diatoms,  among  which  Dr.  Billings  describes  palmella 
and  oscillara.  There  are  also  in  the  little  streams  that 
flow  from  the  boiling  springs  great  quantities  of  a 
fibrous,  silky  substance,  apparently  vegetable,  which 
vibrates  at  the  slightest  movement  of  the  water,  and  has 
the  appearance  of  the  finest  quality  of  cashmere  wool. 
When  the  waters  are  still  these  silken  masses  become 
incrusted  with  lime,  the  delicate  vegetable  threads  dis- 
appear, and  a fibrous,  spongy  mass  remains  like  delicate 
snow-white  coral.” 

The  present  active  portion  of  the  Mammoth  Hot 
Springs  is  in  a small  valley  on  the  mountain  side,  nearly 
two  miles  from  Gardiner  River,  and  from  1,000  to  1,200 
feet  higher  than  the  surface  of  the  same.  Evidence  of 
ancient  hot  water  deposit  is  seen  over  the  entire  expanse 
between  the  now  active  portion  and  the  river.  The  over- 
flow from  the  springs  disappears  at  the  base  of  each 
terrace  and  finds  its  way  through  subterranean  passages 
underneath  the  hotel  plateau  — via  Boiling  River — into 
the  Gardiner,  the  former  having  only  200  feet  surface  ex- 
posure above  its  confluence  with  the  latter  river.  The 
numerous  openings  and  caves  visible  from  the  hotel 
veranda  are  extinct  hot  spring  vents. 

McCartney’s  Cave. — About  500  feet  distant  from 
the  hotel  may  be  seen  a conspicuous  fence  surrounding 
three  sides  of  what  is  known  as  McCartney’s  Cave. 
This  is  an  irregular  opening  in  the  level  surface  of  the 
plateau  some  four  feet  in  diameter;  it  is  visited  by  many 
for  the  purpose  of  examining  the  ancient  hot  water 
stratified  deposits  plainly  indicated  throughout  the  cave. 
Called  a cave,  it  is  simply  the  crater  of  an  extinct  gey- 
ser or  hot  spring.  By  means  of  a ladder  one  can  descend 


20 


YELLOWSTONE  NATIONAL  PARK. 


vertically  some  30  feet  to  the  first  level;  thence  20  feet  on 
an  incline  to  the  bottom  of  this  chamber  with  perfect 
safety.  The  venturesome  may,  by  means  of  a rope  and 
light,  continue  explorations  100  feet  further  without,  or- 
dinarily, experiencing  much  discomfort  from  the  carbonic 
acid  gas  not  perceptible  in  the  first  chamber.  Far 
beneath,  in  a subterranean  chamber,  water  can  be  dis- 
tinctly heard  by  the  rope-supported  tourist;  but  the  hot 
vapors  and  gases  constantly  arising  discourage  further 
investigation,  and  stimulate  an  earnest  desire  to  ascend 
to  the  surface.  The  stratified  deposits  seen  on  the  sides 
of  the  cave  are  of  varied  thickness,  indicating  that  they 
were  greater  during  some  years  than  others.  This  cave 
was  discovered  by  a Mr.  McCartney,  who  located  in 
the  vicinity  in  1869,  hoping  to  claim  the  locality  as  a 
homestead;  his  cabin  still  standing  in  the  gulch  near 
Liberty  Cap.  In  the  winter  of  1881  there  was  a heavy 
fall  of  snow,  sufficient  to  cover  many  of  the  openings 
on  the  plateau.  The  following  spring  Mr.  McCartney 
noticed  a large  pair  of  antlers  protruding,  evidently 
from  the  ground;  investigating,  he  concluded  that  the 
unfortunate  elk  had  broken  through  the  crust  of  snow, 
and,  falling  into  the  cave,  had  died,  suspended  by  his 
horns,  in  the  opening. 

Viewing  the  Terraces. — It  requires  fully  two  hours 
to  leisurely  visit  all  the  springs;  the  high  altitude,  nearly 
7,000  feet  above  the  sea,  will  not  admit  of  a rapid  in- 
spection. Provide  yourself  with  a walking  stick,  um- 
brella and  a pair  of  smoked  or  blue  glasses;  the  reflection 
from  the  water  and  white  formation  on  a sunny  day  is 
painful  to  many.  Select,  if  possible,  early  morning  or 
afternoon,  as  the  heat  is  intense  in  midday;  upon 


MAMMOTH  HOT  SPRINGS. 


21 


cloudy  days  the  reflection,  of  course,  is  not  noticeable, 
nor  is  the  coloring  of  the  springs  as  brilliant.  The  bell 
boys  of  the  hotel  act  as  guides  over  the  formation;  how- 
ever, it  is  not  absolutely  necessary  to  have  a guide,  as  the 
paths  are  easily  followed  and  the  hotel  and  valley  are 
always  in  sight. 

Liberty  Cap,  an  extinct  hot  spring  or  geyser  cone, 
standing  at  the  foot  of  Terrace  Mountain,  near  the  road, 
is  52  feet  high  and  20  feet  in  diameter  at  its  base.  It  is 
formed  of  overlapping  layers  of  deposit,  evidently  hav- 
ing been  built  up  by  the  overflow  of  water  through  the 
orifice  in  the  top.  Scientists  have  been  unable  to  decide 
whether  it  was  .built  up  independently,  or  formed  by  the 
action  of  the  elements  wearing  away  the  soft  material 
surrounding  it. 

The  Devil’s  Thumb,  a cone  of  similar  structure, 
but  smaller,  is  located  some  200  feet  west  of  Liberty 
Cap,  partially  imbedded  in  the  hillside.  The  path  lead- 
ing to  the  formation  past  the  Devil’s  Thumb  is  generally 
taken  when  returning,  the  one  for  the  ascent  branching 
off  the  main  road  some  200  yards  south  of  Liberty  Cap. 

Minerva  Terrace  is  a mass  of  deposit  40  feet  in 
height,  covering  an  area  of  nearly  three-fourths  of  an 
acre,  with  a hot  spring  on  the  summit  some  20  feet  in 
diameter,  the  temperature  of  which  is,  at  the  edge,  154 
degrees  Fahrenheit.  The  constant  changes  of  the  over- 
flow make  it  impossible  to  predict,  a season  in  advance, 
which  will  be  the  active  side  of  the  terrace.  During 
1889  most  of  the  water  flowed  over  the  west  side,  with 
every  indication  that  it  was  working  back  to  the  east  side, 
which,  when  active,  presents  the  better  appearance. 
This  change  is  accounted  for  by  the  rapid  deposition 


22 


MINERVA  TERRACE,  MAMMOTH  HOT  SPRINGS. 


MAMMOTH  HOT  SPRINGS. 


23 


forcing  the  water  eventually  over  the  entire  surface.  The 
amount  of  water  is  very  small  compared  with  the  amount 
of  deposit,  which,  under  favorable  circumstances,  is  about 
one-sixteenth  of  an  inch  in  four  days.  Articles  of  iron, 
glass,  or  any  hard  substance  placed  where  the  water  can 
run  over  them,  are  soon  coated  with  a crystal  white  deposit. 
A series  of  basins  or  pools  fringed  with  stalactitic  masses 
line  the  east  side  of  the  terrace,  and,  when  active,  present 
the  most  delicate  coloring,  from  the  lightest  cream  at 
the  top  to  the  deepest  shades  of  red  at  the  base,  the  pre- 
dominating color  being  bright  orange;  each  pool  or  basin 
is  filled  with  transparent  blue  water.  From  an  elevation 
20  feet  high,  immediately  back  of  the  terrace,  is  an  ex- 
cellent position  to  obtain  the  best  view  of  the  interior 
of  the  spring.  This  terrace  is  about  78  feet  above  the 
level  at  the  base  of  Liberty  Cap,  while  the  main  portion 
of  the  hot  springs  are  on  the  mound  90  feet  higher. 

Jupiter  Terrace. — The  spring  overflowing  this 
terrace  is  the  largest  on  the  “formation,”  being  nearly 
100  feet  in  diameter,  while  the  terrace  itself  covers  an 
area  of  five  acres.  The  various  paths  leading  through- 
out offer  an  excellent  opportunity  of  inspecting  the  deli- 
cate form  and  coloring  characteristic  of  these  wonders. 
East  of  the  spring,  on  the  slopes  leading  down  from  the 
edge  of  the  terrace,  are  some  of  the  handsomest  basins  to 
be  found  in  this  locality;  their  peculiar  shape  suggests  the 
very  appropriate  name  “Pulpit”  Terrace.  From  the 
prominence  west  of  Jupiter  Terrace,  under  which  is  lo- 
cated Cupid’s  Cave,  an  excellent  general  view  may  be  had. 
The  path  leading  west  of  Cupid’s  Cave  passes  along  the 
summit  of  Narrow  Gauge  Terrace,  which  terminates  at  the 
hill,  where  the  main  path  leading  to  the  hotel  is  intersected, 


24 


YELLOWSTONE  NATIONAL  PARK. 


Narrow  Gauge  Terrace  is  a fissure  ridge  300  feet 
long,  filled  with  numerous  miniature  geysers  and  springs 
which  deposit  the  most  brilliant  coloring. 

Orange  Geyser,  Devil’s  Kitchen  and  Bath 
Lake,  on  the  next  terrace  above  Narrow  Gauge,  are  well 
worth  the  visit  if  one  has  the  time  and  inclination. 


SIDE  TRIPS  FROM  MAMMOTH  HOT  SPRINGS, 


25 


SIDE  TRIPS  FROM  THE  MAMMOTH 
HOT  SPRINGS. 

Middle  Gardiner  Falls  and  Bunsen’s  Peak. — 

Surrounding  the  Mammoth  Hot  Springs,  and  not  on  the 
main  traveled  road,  are  many  interesting  places  that  can 
be  visited  by  ladies  and  gentlemen  fond  of  horseback 
riding.  The  Middle  Gardiner  Falls  trip  is  probably  the 
most  interesting.  The  trail  leaves  the  Golden  Gate  road 
about  half  a mile  beyond  Camp  Sheridan,  passing  along 
the  west  side  of  the  Government  inclosure  to  the  West 
Gardiner  River.  For  excellent  trout  fishing  follow  down 
the  West  Gardiner  to  the  main  stream  and  from  there 
up  through  the  canyon  (which  can  only  be  reached  by 
following  the  bed  of  the  river).  The  trail  to  the  falls 
and  canyon  crosses  the  West  Gardiner  and  passes  over 
the  eastern  slope  of  Bunsen’s  Peak  to  Observation  Point, 
which  is  1 , 200  to  1 , 500  feet  above  the  river.  The  walls  of 
the  canyon  are  nearly  perpendicular,  especially  on  the 
east  side,  and  resemble  more  nearly  the  Grand  Canyon 
of  the  Yellowstone  than  any  other  place  in  the  Park. 
The  total  drop  of  the  falls  is  300  feet,  the  first  100  feet 
being  perpendicular;  the  trail  continues  around  the  slope 
of  Bunsen’s  Peak,  intersecting  the  main  road  at  Golden 
Gate.  The  comparatively  easy  road  around  the  moun- 
tain, though  slightly  longer,  is  preferable  to  returning 
over  the  trail  just  followed.  The  ascent  to  Bunsen’s 
Peak  is  easily  made  from  the  south  side;  the  view  from 
its  summit  is  grand  and  impressive.  To  the  south  the 
Teton  range,  forming  the  boundary  between  Idaho  and 
Wyoming,  though  100  miles  distant,  can  be  plainly  seen 
on  a clear  day;  the  magnificent  Gallatin  range  being  to 


26 


YELLOWSTONE  NATIONAL  PARK. 


the  west,  while  Electric  Peak,  Hot  Spring  Valley  and 
the  Yellowstone  range  occupy  the  north  and  east.  No 
better  point  can  be  found  in  this  portion  of  the  Park  to 
study  the  geography  of  the  country.  From  the  west 
entrance  of  Golden  Gate  you  have  the  choice  of  two 
routes  to  the  hotel  — the  regular  carriage  road,  and  the 
old  road,  which  is  along  the  west  side  of  Terrace  Moun- 
tain, crossing  the  same  through  the  pass  called  Snow 
Gate,  thence  down  over  the  formations  to  the  hotel. 
The  entire  distance  of  this  trip  is  about  eight  miles,  and 
can  be  easily  accomplished  in  half  a day.  If  the  ascent 
of  Bunsen’s  Peak  is  made  it  will  be  necessary  to  start  in 
the  forenoon  and  lunch  at  Gardiner  Falls. 

Mt.  Evarts  and  East  Gardiner  Falls.  — The  gi- 
gantic wall  rising  some  2,000  feet  above  Gardiner  River 
is  the  west  face  of  a broad  and  triangular  mountain 
comprising  an  area  of  20  square  miles,  known  as  Mt. 
Evarts,  which  name  has  been  attached  to  it  since  1870. 
The  story  of  Mr.  Evarts’  adventure  and  sufferings  is 
well  known,  and  the  fact  that  his  rescue  from  a horrible 
death  took  place  in  a little  valley  just  back  of  the  summit 
of  this  mountain  makes  the  name  more  than  usually 
appropriate.  Mr.  Evarts  was  a member  of  the  Langford 
party  who  explored  the  Park  in  1870.  While  this  party 
were  in  camp  at  Yellowstone  Lake,  some  50  miles  dis- 
tant, Mr.  Evarts  decided  to  leave  the  party  and  return 
to  Bozeman.  Being  positive  that  he  could  reach  his 
destination  without  the  assistance  of  a guide,  he  was 
allowed  to  depart  mounted  on  a horse  with  a pack  horse 
to  carry  his  provisions  and  camp  equipage.  Overtaken  by 
a storm,  he  became  bewildered  and  while  searching  for 
evidence  of  a trail  lost  his  eye-glasses  and  was  unable  tQ 


SIDE  TRIPS  FROM  MAMMOTH  HOT  SPRINGS. 


27 


return  to  his  horses.  For  three  weeks  he  wandered  over 
the  country  and  was  found  by  scout  Barronette  upon  this 
mountain  in  a very  precarious  condition.  Mr.  Evarts, 
however,  fully  recovered  from  his  thrilling  experience 
and  privation. 

The  wagon  road  from  Mammoth  Hot  Springs  to  Cooke 
City,  a mining  camp  just  outside  the  northeast  corner  of 
the  Park,  passes  by  East  Gardiner  Falls,  which  are 
nearly  on  a level  with  the  eastern  slope  of  Mt.  Evarts; 
it  is  possible  to  ride  a horse  to  the  edge  of  the  moun- 
tain overlooking  Hot  Spring  Valley,  which  commands 
one  of  the  finest  views  of  this  locality.  Mt.  Evarts  is 
especially  adapted  as  a summer  range  for  game,  and  it  is 
not  uncommon  to  see  elk,  antelope  and  big  horn  sheep 
while  on  the  mountain.  East  Gardiner  Falls  are  com- 
posed of  two  cascades,  the  upper  one  having  a drop  of 
nearly  50  feet,  while  the  lower  falls  are  more  broken  and 
have  a total  drop  of  about  80  feet;  the  two  being  a short 
distance  apart.  An  excellent  view  of  Gardiner  Can- 
yon and  the  Hot  Springs  in  the  distance  may  be  had 
from  the  ledge  near  the  lower  falls.  The  East  Gardiner 
Falls  are  five  miles  from  the  hotel;  the  summit  of  Mt. 
Evarts  overlooking  the  Hot  Springs  a mile  and  a half 
further.  Parties  on  horseback  can  cross  over  Mt.  Evarts, 
connecting  with  the  Yellowstone  trail  which  intersects 
the  road  from  Cinnabar  to  the  Hot  Springs  near  Gardiner 
City.  Excellent  fishing  may  be  found  in  the  Yellowstone 
River  near  the  mouth  of  Black  Tail  Deer  Creek,  which 
crosses  the  Cooke  City  road  some  two  miles  east  of  Gar- 
diner Falls,  and  can  be  easily  followed  to  the  river. 

Yancey’s,  Tower  Falls  and  Petrified  Trees. — 
Parties  desiring  to  visit  the  eastern  part  of  the  Park,  not 


I 


TOWER  FALLS. 


28 


SIDE  TRIPS  FROM  MAMMOTH  HOT  SPRINGS. 


29 


available  on  the  grand  tour  until  the  Government  road 
over  Mt.  Washburn  is  completed,  can  spend  two  or  three 
enjoyable  days  at  “Uncle”  John  Yancey’s,  have  the 
best  of  trout  fishing,  and  visit  Tower  Falls  and  the  petri- 
fied trees.  Yancey’s  place  is  eighteen  miles  from  the 
Mammoth  Hot  Springs,  on  the  Cooke  City  road.  The 
character  of  the  country  is  quite  unlike  any  other  portion 
of  the  Park,  and  the  ride,  generally,  is  very  much  en- 
joyed. Fishing  in  the  Yellowstone  is  excellent  above 
the  junction  of  East  Fork  to  Tower  Creek.  Tower  Falls 
are  three  miles  from  Yancey’s  (where  guides  to  the  fish- 
ing  grounds  can  be  secured).  Tower  Creek  empties 
into  the  Yellowstone  a short  distance  below  the  falls, 
which  are  no  feet  high,  deriving  their  name  from  the 
peculiar  rocky  formations  which  rise,  tower-like,  several 
hundred  feet  above  the  brink  of  the  falls.  There  are 
no  fish  in  the  creek  above  the  falls.  The  petrified  trees 
are  one  and  a half  miles  from  Yancey’s,  and  reached 
by  an  easy  trail.  They  are  the  only  specimens  of  petri- 
fied trees  standing  in  their  natural  position  to  be  found 
in  the  Park.  On  Specimen  Ridge,  across  the  Yellow- 
stone, some  10  miles  from  Yancey’s,  are  numerous 
specimens  of  petrifactions,  many  of  them  being  4 and 
5 feet  in  diameter.  All  visitors  to  “Uncle”  John’s 
speak  in  glowing  terms  of  the  trip.  His  hotel,  with 
accommodations  for  twelve  to  fifteen  ladies  and  gentle- 
men, is  located  in  Pleasant  Valley,  where  Mr.  Yancey 
has  resided  for  twenty  years,  selecting  this  romantic 
portion  of  the  Yellowstone  in  preference  to  all  others. 


TOUR  OR  THE  PARK. 


3t 


TOUR  OF  THE  PARK. 


Golden  Gate. — This  picturesque  portion  of  the  tour 
of  the  Park  is  four  miles  south  of  the  Mammoth  Hot 
Springs.  It  is  a rugged  pass  between  the  base  of  the 
lofty  elevation  of  Bunsen’s  Peak  and  the  southern  ex- 
tremity of  Terrace  Mountain,  through  which  flows  the 
west  branch  of  Gardiner  River.  The  sides  of  these 
rocky  walls,  which  extend  200  or  300  feet  above  the  road- 
way, are  covered  with  a yellow  moss,  suggesting  the 
appropriate  name  the  pass  now  bears.  The  pillar  at  the 
east  entrance,  some  12  feet  high,  was  originally  a part 
of  the  canyon  wall.  The  construction  of  this  road  — 
scarce  a mile  in  length — was  accomplished  at  an  expense 
of  $14,000,  it  being  the  most  difficult  piece  of  road 
building  yet  encountered  by  the  Government  engineers. 
Golden  Gate  being  nearly  1,000  feet  higher  than  the  Hot 
Springs,  necessarily  makes  this  portion  of  the  journey 
rather  wearisome;  still  the  beautiful  drive  through  forest 
and  glen  fully  compensates  for  the  extra  time  consumed. 
The  favoring  of  one’s  horses  at  the  outset  of  the  trip  is 
a matter  of  importance.  Rustic  Falls,  occupying  a con- 
spicuous position  at  the  west  end  of  Golden  Gate,  add  a 
charm  to  this  beautiful  spot,  and  when  seen  in  the  early 
part  of  the  season  are  especially  fine.  The  stream  is  fed 
by  mountain  snows  and  springs  along  the  base  of  the 
hills  a mile  or  two  beyond.  The  fall  is  some  60  feet,  over 
a series  of  shallow  basins  worn  into  the  dark  moss-cov- 
ered ledge,  disappearing  underneath  the  surplus  of  rock 
deposited  in  the  canyon  from  the  construction  of  the 
roadway.  The  view  obtained  of  Golden  Gate  upon  the 
return  trip  is  equally  as  interesting. 


32 


YELLOWSTONE  NATIONAL  PARK. 


Swan  Lake  Basin. — A pleasant  surprise  awaits  the 
visitor  immediately  beyond  Golden  Gate,  in  Swan  Lake 
Basin,  it  being  quite  unlike  the  region  just  traversed,  and 
one  of  the  many  typical  mountain  prairies  hemmed  in 
by  snow-clad  peaks  found  throughout  the  Park.  Evi- 
dences of  old  Indian  camps  are  seen  in  many  places,  and 
during  the  fall  and  winter  it  is  inhabited  by  hundreds  of 
elk  and  deer.  The  magnificent  range  to  the  west  is  the 
Gallatin  Mountains,  among  which  are  Bell’s  Peak,  Quad- 
rant Mountain  and  Mt.  Holmes;  the  last  named  having 
an  elevation  of  10,578  feet.  Vast  fields  of  perpetual 
snow  are  in  sight  throughout  the  summer.  To  the  north 
about  eight  miles  is  Electric  Peak,  the  highest  mountain 
in  the  northern  part  of  the  Park,  whose  summit  is  11,125 
feet  above  sea  level,  deriving  its  name  from  the  fact  that 
a great  deposit  of  mineral  renders  the  working  of  the 
surveyor’s  transit  impossible  when  on  the  mountain. 
The  peculiar  electrical  display  from  its  rugged  peaks  dur- 
ing a thunder  storm  is  a sight  witnessed  by  only  a favored 
few.  The  drive  continues  south  through  Swan  Lake 
Basin,  nearly  upon  this  same  level,  to  Norris,  crossing 
Indian  and  Obsidian  creeks,  the  two  forming  the  Middle 
Gardiner  River. 

Obsidian  Cliff.  — This  mountain  of  volcanic  glass  is 
12  miles  south  of  the  Mammoth  Hot  Springs.  The  road- 
way passes  along  its  base  for  1,000  feet  between  it  and 
Beaver  Lake.  The  vertical  columns  of  pentagonal- 
shaped blocks  of  obsidian,  rising  some  250  feet  above  the 
road,  present  a glistening,  mirror-like  effect  when  illu- 
mined by  the  sun’s  rays.  The  greater  part  of  this  mineral 
glass  is  jet  black,  and  quite  opaque,  with  traces  of  similar 
formation  variegated  with  streaks  of  red  and  yellow. 


OBSIDIAN  CLIFF 


3 


33 


34 


YELLOWSTONE  NATIONAL  PARK. 


The  construction  of  the  roadway  along  its  base  was 
accomplished  in  a novel  manner  and  with  considerable 
difficulty;  the  use  of  blasting  powder  being  out  of  the 
question,  great  fires  were  built  around  the  huge  blocks 
of  glass,  which,  when  expanded,  were  suddenly  cooled 
by  dashing  water  upon  them,  resulting  in  shattering  the 
blocks  into  small  fragments.  This  process  made  possi- 
ble the  construction  of  this  really  wonderful  roadway, 
probably  the  only  piece  of  glass  road  in  the  world. 
There  being  no  other  exposed  ridge  of  obsidian  in  the 
Rocky  Mountains,  and  this  material  being  more  desirable 
than  flint  for  the  manufacture  of  arrow-heads,  it  was  once 
a famous  resort  for  all  tribes  of  Indians,  who  congregated 
here  in  great  numbers.  Obsidian  Cliff  was  “neutral 
ground”  to  all  the  Rocky  Mountain  Indians  and  un- 
doubtedly as  sacred  to  the  various  hostile  tribes  as  the 
far-famed  Pipestone  country  of  Minnesota.  Chips  of 
obsidian  and  specimens  of  partly  finished  arrow-heads 
are  found  throughout  the  Park,  generally  at  places  occu- 
pied by  the  Indians  as  summer  camps. 

Beaver  Lake. — The  roadway  continues  along  the 
east  side  of  Beaver  Lake,  which  is  about  one  mile  long 
and  a quarter  of  a mile  wide.  More  than  a dozen  beaver 
dams  are  constructed  across  the  lake,  forming  a series  of 
artificial  obstructions,  each  having  a fall  of  from  two  to 
four  feet.  A beaver  house,  still  inhabited,  is  located  near 
the  west  shore  of  the  lake.  Since  the  rigid  enforcement  of 
the  Park  regulations  regarding  the  killing  of  game,  Beaver 
Lake  is  becoming  alive  with  numerous  water  fowl,  the  pass- 
ing carriages  not  seeming  to  alarm  them.  The  reflection 
of  the  pine- clad  hills  among  the  dense  growth  of  pond 
lilies  which  line  its  shores  adds  to  the  beauties  of  this  lake. 


VIRGINIA  CASCADES. 


35 


36 


YELLOWSTONE  NATIONAL  PARK. 


The  drive  to  Norris,  though  not  of  especial  interest, 
is  over  one  of  the  natural  “passes”  between  the  head- 
waters of  the  branches  of  the  Yellowstone  and  Missouri 
rivers,  the  ascent  of  the  divide  being  so  gentle  it  is  im- 
possible to  know  when  it  is  passed.  Twin  Lakes,  Mineral 
Lake,  Roaring  Mountain  and  the  Frying  Pan  afford 
ample  attractions  between  Beaver  Lake  and  Norris  Hotel. 

From  Norris,  a wagon  road  (constructed  in  1887) 
runs  in  a nearly  due  east  direction  to  the  Great  Falls  and 
Grand  Canyon  (12  miles  distant)  leading  up  the  valley 
of  the  Gibbon  River,  through  Virginia  Canyon,  turning 
a sharp  angle  of  rocks  known  as  the  “ Bend  in  the  Road” 
and  passing  just  beyond  a series  of  pretty  cascades, 
thence  on  through  an  undulating  pine  forest,  though  the 
last  few  miles  of  the  way  the  country  is  more  “open,” 
affording  occasional  glimpses  of  the  rugged  scenery  along 
the  Yellowstone  River.  On  the  whole,  this  road  is  both 
pleasant  and  interesting;  its  grades  are  comparatively 
easy  and  its  forest  surroundings  render  it  refreshingly 
cool. 

This  is  the  return  route  for  stages  which  run  through 
the  geyser  basins  on  their  way  to  the  falls,  but  in  the 
rush  of  travel,  or  as  a matter  of  their  own  choice,  visitors 
are  often  conveyed  from  Mammoth  Springs  direct  to  the 
falls  and  canyon  over  this  road,  and  so  on  to  Yellowstone 
and  Shoshone  (pronounced  Sho-Sho-ny)  lakes,  and 
through  the  geyser  basins  back  to  the  Springs. 


TOUR  OF  THE  PARK. 


37 


NORRIS  GEYSER  BASIN. 

Many  prefer  leaving  the  hotel  immediately  after  dinner 
in  advance  of  their  carriages,  which  can  overtake  them 
near  the  Monarch,  about  one  mile  distant,  the  walk 
through  the  basin  allowing  a more  satisfactory  inspection 
than  possible  to  obtain  in  any  other  way. 

This  region,  called  the  Gibbon  Geyser  Basin  in  Dr. 
Hayden’s  report,  was  discovered,  in  1875,  by  Col.  P.  W. 
Norris,  then  superintendent  of  the  Park.  Since  1881  it 
has  been  called  Norris  Geyser  Basin,  which  name  it  is 
quite  likely  to  retain.  It  covers  an  area  of  six  square 
miles,  and  is  one  of  the  most  interesting  portions  of  the 
Park  from  a geological  standpoint,  from  the  fact  of  its 
being  one  of  the  highest  geyser  basins  in  the  Park,  and 
many  of  its  active  geysers  being  of  quite  recent  origin. 
While  the  geysers  of  Norris  Basin  do  not  compare  with 
those  of  the  Upper  Basin  (thirty  miles  south),  they  are 
of  great  interest  to  travelers  never  before  witnessing  this 
strange  freak  of  nature;  hence  it  is  better  to  inspect  them 
when  first  passing  through,  as  they  appear  insignificant 
upon  the  return  trip. 

The  road  follows  along  the  ridge  on  the  east  side  of 
the  basin,  affording  a commanding  view  of  the  surround- 
ings. The  first  impression,  especially  upon  a cool  day, 
when  the  steam  is  visible,  is  that  one  is  entering  a manu- 
facturing locality;  the  terrible  noise  and  rumblings,  the 
hissing  of  escaping  steam  and  very  unpleasant  odors  ex- 
cite a feeling  of  unnecessary  caution  while  endeavoring 
to  inspect  the  various  wonders;  however,  the  roadway 
and  numerous  paths  leading  through  the  basin  can  be  fol- 
lowed with  impunity.  The  Steam  Vent,  Black  Growler, 


TOUR  OF  THE  PARK. 


39 


Mud  Geyser,  Monarch  Geyser,  New  Crater  and  Emerald 
Pool  comprise  the  chief  attractions  of  Norris  Basin. 

The  Steam  Vent  is  located  at  the  left  of  the  road, 
and  is  exceedingly  interesting.  Sufficient  steam  is  con- 
stantly escaping  to  move  the  longest  of  railway  trains, 
were  it  possible  to  utilize  it.  This  steady  discharge  of 
internal  heat,  producing  a noise  that  is  deafening,  has 
been  known  to  exist  for  the  past  twelve  years.  Rocks 
thrown  into  the  aperture  are  instantly  hurled  aside  with 
great  force.  The  plateau  or  valley  to  the  southwest  is 
filled  with  numerous  openings,  the  water  in  many  being 
clear  and  transparent,  and  in  others  of  a milky  hue,  con- 
stantly boiling  and  splashing,  many  of  the  vents  sending 
forth  a disagreeable,  sulphurous  odor.  This  section  can 
be  visited  if  great  care  is  exercised;  many  of  the  craters, 
being  but  thinly  crusted,  are  insufficient  to  support  a 
person’s  weight. 

The  little  geyser  at  the  south  end  of  the  plateau  is 
the  “Constant,”  or  “Minute  Man,”  which  has  an  erup- 
tion every  sixty  seconds,  with  only  a slight  variation; 
the  pool  is  24  feet  in  diameter,  filled  with  water  of 
crystal  clearness.  The  absence  of  a cone  or  deposit  sur- 
rounding the  geysers  of  this  basin,  such  as  is  found 
around  the  geysers  in  the  upper  basin,  tends  to  sub- 
stantiate the  theory  of  scientists  as  to  the  age  of  this 
locality.  During  an  eruption  of  the  Minute  Man  jets  of 
water  are  thrown  40  feet  in  the  air,  while  the  main  body 
is  lifted  scarcely  30  feet.  The  overflow  is  not  large,  as 
most  of  the  water  returns  into  the  crater  after  each  dis- 
play. 

The  Black  Growler,  with  a chimney-shaped  open- 
ing, is  located  quite  near  the  road,  at  the  head  of  a gulch 


40 


YELLOWSTONE  NATIONAL  PARK. 


leading  from  the  plateau.  Very  little  water  is  thrown  out, 
while  a large  quantity  of  steam  is  constantly  escaping, 
producing  a peculiar  sound.  The  deposit  surrounding  it 
being  of  inky  blackness,  is  evidently  the  origin  of  its 
name.  The  water  is  not  clear  and  has  a strong  odor  of 
sulphur,  which  is  probably  the  cause  of  its  turbidity. 

Mud  Geyser  is  located  near  the  road,  on  the  highest 
point  in  the  basin;  its  crater  is  about  12  feet  in  diameter, 
having  a raised  margin  5 feet  high  on  the  east  side, 
sloping  nearly  to  a level  at  the  west.  The  eruptions 
occur  at  intervals  of  twenty  minutes  and  continue  about 
five;  the  lead-colored  contents  (about  the  consistency  of 
paint)  being  raised  8 or  10  feet  during  each  pulsation. 
Its  contents  are  severely  agitated,  the  turgid  mass  rising 
nearly  to  the  edge  of  the  crater.  During  the  spring  of 
1889  the  character  of  this  geyser  changed  considerably, 
becoming  more  clear,  and  another,  with  predominant 
muddy  features,  broke  out  near  the  Steam  Vent.  These 
phenomena  tend  to  substantiate  the  theory  that  all  gey- 
sers, in  their  earlier  stages  of  development,  partake  of 
the  nature  of  mud  springs.  The  path  leading  south  from 
Mud  Geyser  passes  Emerald  Pool  and  New  Crater,  and 
continues  on  to  the  Monarch. 

Emerald  Pool  is  somewhat  concealed  in  the  tim- 
ber, and  is  a handsome,  emerald-tinted  spring,  40  x 50 
feet  in  size.  The  sulphur-lined  basin  with  coral  walls, 
most  beautifully  shaped,  can  be  seen  to  an  appalling 
depth.  It  is  one  of  the  many  quiet  springs,  simply  over- 
flowing. The  water  is  quite  hot,  having  a temperature 
of  186  degrees  Fahrenheit  at  its  edge. 

The  New  Crater.  —On  the  hillside,  about  500  feet 
south  of  Emerald  Pool,  is  found  this  prominent  object  of 


TOUR  OF  THK  PARK. 


4i 


interest,  surrounded  by  huge  blocks  of  recently  disturbed 
rock,  a narrow  ravine  leading  to  the  basin  below  being 
covered  with  sand  and  deposit  by  its  overflow.  The 
eruptions  of  this  new  geyser  during  the  seasons  of  1888 
and  1889  occurred  every  two  hours,  continuing  about 
twenty  minutes.  The  rock  covered  crater  prevented  the 
discharges  attaining  any  great  height.  Reports  from  the 
Park  during  the  winter  of  1889  and  1890  indicate  that  it 
is  developing  into  a large  and  powerful  geyser. 

The  Monarch  Geyser.  — The  location  of  this  gey- 
ser is  beneath  a prominent  bluff  of  brilliantly  colored 
rocks,  nearly  upon  the  level  of  the  plateau;  the  crater 
consists  of  two  oblong  openings  in  the  rock,  the  larger 
of  which  is  20  feet  long  and  3 feet  wide.  Eruptions 
of  the  Monarch  occur  without  warning,  and  consist  of  a 
series  of  explosions,  frequently  more  than  a dozen,  in 
which  columns  of  water  are  thrown  100  feet  high, 
flooding  the  level  country  surrounding.  The  intervals 
of  eruption  vary  from  year  to  year,  ordinarily,  about 
twelve  hours.  The  Fearless,  Vixen  and  Steamboat  are 
geysers  of  minor  importance,  and  are  well  worth  a visit. 
Three  miles  from  Norris  Basin  the  road  enters  Elk  Park, 
a beautiful  valley  surrounded  by  heavily  timbered  hills 
and  mountains;  the  Gibbon  River  quietly  winding 
through  it.  A short  distance  before  entering  Gibbon 
Canyon,  which  is  followed  for  some  miles,  a very  inter- 
esting group  of  paint  pots  can  be  visited. 

Gibbon  Paint  Pots. — Half  a mile  east  of  the  en- 
trance to  Gibbon  Canyon,  surrounded  by  a dense  growth 
of  pine  timber,  are  located  these  remarkable  paint  pots, 
a carriage  driveway  connecting  them  with  the  main  road. 
They  consist  of  numerous  openings  in  the  highly  colored 


42 


YELLOWSTONE  NATIONAL  PARK. 


clay,  and  are  intensely  curious,  their  brilliant  coloring 
and  fantastic  shapes  being  the  admiration  of  all.  The 
greater  part  of  the  hot  springs  are  at  the  base  of  the 
hill,  while  the  most  beautiful  paint  pot  is  some  50  feet 
up  the  hillside.  This,  the  main  attraction,  has  a funnel- 
shaped  crater  with  walls  of  finely  ground  clay  extending 
about  six  feet  high;  each  puff*  of  steam  through  the 
thick,  pasty  material  in  the  bottom  of  the  crater  moulds 
a perfect  rose  in  full  bloom,  to  be  soon  replaced  by  one 
equally  as  handsome.  Visitors  should  avoid  leaving  the 
regular  paths,  as  the  treacherous  character  of  this  forma- 
tion renders  it  quite  unsafe. 

GIBBON  CANYON. 

This  rugged  mountain  pass  affords  the  only  fairly  easy 
means  of  exit  from  Norris  Geyser  Basin  to  the  valley  of 
the  Firehole.  The  roadway  enters  the  canyon  on  the 
east  side  of  the  Gibbon  River,  and  follows  the  latter’s 
course  as  nearly  as  practicable,  shadowed  by  precipitous 
cliffs, — some  of  them  2,000  feet  in  height,  — the  frequent 
sharp  approach  of  which  to  the  banks  of  the  river  com- 
pels the  crossing  and  recrossing  of  the  rapid  but  shallow 
stream — here,  across  a substantial  bridge;  there,  by  a con- 
venient natural  ford. 

At  the  northern  entrance  to  the  canyon  a foot-bridge 
and  bridle-path  lead  to  the  summit  of  Mt.  Schurz,  upon 
which  is  located  Monument  Geyser  Basin,  at  an  altitude 
of  1,000  feet  above  Gibbon  River.  Interesting  as  this 
“basin”  unquestionably  is,  its  difficult  access,  together 
with  the  time  necessarily  consumed  in  climbing  and  de- 
scending the  somewhat  steep  trail,  is,  unless  to  one  in- 
clined to  scientific  observation,  scarcely  compensated  by 


TOUR  OF  THE  PARK. 


43 


even  the  closest  scrutiny  of  the  dozen  or  so  crumbling-  gey- 
ser cones  — some  of  them  steaming  and  rumbling,  others 
apparently  extinct  — which  constitute  the  sum  total  of  at- 
tractiveness and  gives  to  the  locality  a distinctive  name. 

Proceeding  along  the  pass,  the  numerous  little  puffs 
of  steam  arising  from  either  bank  of  the  river,  near  the 
water’s  surface,  need  no  watchful  guide  to  apprise  the 
passer-by  of  the  countless  hot  springs  with  which  the 
gorge  abounds.  Many  of  these  springs  are  curious  and 
interesting,  and  all  can  be  sufficiently  observed  as  one 
passes  leisurely  along,  without  stopping  to  examine  each 
in  detail.  One  of  them,  however,  Beryl  Spring,  is 
rather  more  than  usually  attractive,  and  deserves,  as  it 
seldom  fails  to  receive,  somewhat  of  particular  notice. 
The  largest  boiling  spring  in  the  Park,  being  some  15 
feet  in  diameter,  it  is  located  close  by  the  roadside,  about 
a mile  from  the  entrance  to  the  canyon,  and  can  be  readily 
viewed  from  a passing  carriage;  the  violent  boiling  of 
its  surface,  coupled  with  the  noisy  hiss  of  escaping  steam, 
while  lending  something  of  nervous  apprehension  to  the 
feelings  of  the  traveler,  strangely  enough  possesses  no 
terrors  for  the  stage  horse,  although  the  constant  over- 
flow of  scalding  water  from  the  edges  of  its  basin- like  rim 
pours  across  the  roadway  itself. 

The  road,  throughout  the  canyon’s  entire  length, 
could  hardly  have  been  better  constructed  to  afford  a 
more  complete  and  thorough  inspection  of  the  wild  beauty 
of  rock  and  glen,  and,  as  it  nears  its  southern  exit  from 
the  pass,  permits  a good  view  of  one  of  the  many  charm- 
ing cataracts  of  this  region. 

Gibbon  Falls,  whose  waters,  tumbling  in  a foamy 
torrent  down  a series  of  steep  cascades  on  one  side  of  a 


44 


YKLLOWSTONE  NATIONAL  PARK. 


bold,  rocky  ledge,  and  on  the  other  — and  most  readily 
observed  side  — streaming  in  a thin,  shining  ribbon  of 
silvery  spray  from  a height  of  something  over  80  feet, 
fittingly  conclude  the  attractions  of  Gibbon  Canyon. 

After  leaving  the  falls,  the  road  passes  for  a distance 
of  some  eight  miles  over  a succession  of  pine  and  fir  clad 
terraces,  from  the  southern  crest  of  which,  on  a clear  day, 
may  be  seen  the  three  snow-capped  “sentinels”  of  the 
Teton  Mountains,  75  miles  distant,  forming  a portion  of 
the  boundary  between  the  territories  of  Wyoming  and 
Idaho;  their  dizzy  height,  full  14,000  feet,  overtopping 
all  other  peaks  of  the  Rockies. 

The  dense  volume  of  steam  rising  from  Excelsior  Gey- 
ser, distant  about  eight  miles,  is  also  plainly  visible  from 
this  point. 

Leaving  the  terraces,  the  road  passes,  by  a gentle  de- 
scent, into  the  valley  of  Firehole  River,  whose  two  forks, 
together  with  the  waters  of  the  Gibbon,  unite  to  form  the 
Madison  River,  one  of  the  three  principal  sources  of  the 
Missouri.  Here  is  located  the  hotel  of  the  Lower  Gey- 
ser Basin,  and,  to  prevent  fatigue,  is  usually  made  the 
terminus  of  the  first  day’s  journey  by  persons  entering 
the  Park  by  way  of  Mammoth  Hot  Springs;  and  is  the 
first  point  reached  by  those  approaching  by  the  Beaver 
Canyon  route. 

The  hotel  accommodations  here  are  good,  consisting 
of  one  large  hostelry  and  several  cottages.  The  baths  are 
especially  fine,  — soft  hot  water  from  a mineral  spring  near 
by  being  conducted  to  the  hotel  in  pipes,  — affording  de- 
lightfully refresing  bathing  after  the  day’s  ride  of  42  miles. 

One  of  the  interesting  things  to  be  seen  about  the 
forks  of  the  Firehole  is  a colony  of  beavers,  which 


TOUR  OF  THE  PARK. 


45 


have  their  habitat  a short  distance  below  the  confluence 
of  the  forks  of  the  river,  not  more  than  a quarter  of  a 
mile  from  the  hotel.  Here,  almost  any  pleasant  evening, 
the  sight-seer  may  find  these  industrious  animals  busily 
engaged  in  dam  building  or  repairing,  apparently  as  little 
disturbed  by  the  presence  of  man  in  this  wild  retreat  as 
one  might  expect  them  to  be  if  domesticated  and  kept  in 
a city  park. 


46 


YELLOWSTONE  NATIONAL  PARK. 


LOWER  GEYSER  BASIN. 

This  is  a comparatively  wide  valley,  extending  south- 
ward from  the  junction  of  the  east  fork  of  Firehole  River 
with  the  main  stream,  and  embracing  an  area  of  30  to  40 
square  miles.  Over  this  valley  or  “basin”  are  scattered 
hot  springs  in  groups,  of  which  Dr.  Hayden,  in  his  of- 
ficial survey  of  the  Park  Region,  has  catalogued  693 
exclusive  of  17  geysers.  The  central  portion  of  the 
basin  is  a nearly  level  plateau,  6 or  7 miles  in  width,  only 
partially  timbered,  and  covered  with  either  spring  deposit 
or  marsh.  The  trip  from  Lower  Geyser  Basin  Hotel  to 
the  Upper  Basin  and  return  is  the  event  of  a lifetime 
and  should  be  well  timed  as  to  the  hour  of  entering  the 
Lower  Basin  in  the  morning.  It  frequently  occurs  that 
visitors,  impatient  to  begin  the  second  day’s  sight-seeing, 
leave  the  hotel  at  the  forks  of  the  Firehole,  at  so  early  an 
hour  that  they  find  everything  enveloped  in  dense  mist. 
Hence  nothing  will  be  gained  by  a too  early  start,  or  un- 
til the  mist  and  steam  have  risen  from  the  valley. 

The  general  elevation  of  Lower  Geyser  Plateau  is 
about  7,250  feet, — that  of  the  Upper  Basin  a trifle 
greater  — and  the  surrounding  slopes, — for  the  most  part 
heavily  timbered  — from  400  to  800  feet  higher.  Though 
the  scenery  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  the  hotel  at  Fire- 
hole is  not  specially  interesting,  its  location  at  this  point 
was  found  to  be  expedient  in  order  that  the  complete  tour 
of  the  Park  might  be  made  with  ease  and  comfort,  a due 
regard  being,  of  course,  had  to  effecting  this  without  en- 
croaching further  than  actually  necessary  upon  the  tour- 
ist’s, very  often,  limited  time. 


TOUR  OF  THE  PARK. 


47 


Two  roads  lead  from  the  Lower  to  the  Upper  Basin — 
a distance  of  io  miles.  The  route  usually  taken  is  the 
one  on  the  east  side  of  Firehole  River,  which  passes  the 
Government  buildings  situated  on  the  east  fork  of  the 
Firehole,  about  half  a mile  from  the  hotel,  passing  the 
junction  of  the  falls  road  and  skirting  along  the  east 
side  of  the  basin  until  reaching  Fountain  Geyser  and 
Mammoth  Paint  Pots  — the  two  most  prominent  features 
of  this  locality,  distant  two  and  one-half  miles  from  the 
hotel.  This  road,  though  a trifle  longer  than  the  main 
road,  is  the  only  route  leading  past  the  Fountain  and 
paint  pots. 

Fountain  Geyser  is  located  upon  a mound  or  emi- 
nence about  25  feet  above  the  roadway,  and  distant  from 
the  latter  several  hundred  feet.  The  formation  or  de- 
posit from  the  waters  of  this  geyser  covers  an  area  of 
several  acres,  the  crater  of  which  is  30  feet  in  diameter, 
surrounded  by  a rim-like  edge,  to  the  margin  of  which 
the  water  rises,  except  upon  the  south  side,  where  a 
mound  of  beaded  geyserite  has  been  built  up  to  a height 
of  3 or  4 feet.  On  the  north  side  of  the  geyser  proper 
is  a considerably  larger  pool  which  receives  the  overflow 
from  the  crater. 

The  cushion-like  masses  of  geyserite,  which  are  plain- 
ly visible  through  the  transparent  blue  water,  in  both 
the  crater  and  pool,  are  very  much  admired. 

The  eruptions  of  the  Fountain  occur  at  intervals  of 
from  two  to  four  hours,  and  continue  with  great  force 
from  ten  to  fifteen  minutes  usually. 

During  activity  the  main  volume  of  water  does  not 
reach  a height  beyond  15  or  20  feet,  though  jets  are  fre- 
quently thrown  50  or  60  feet.  Indications  of  an  erup- 


48 


YELLOWSTONE  NATIONAL  PARK. 


tion  are  as  follows  : When  both  the  pool  and  crater  are 
full  of  water  to  the  rim  it  is  probable  that  an  eruption  will 
soon  take  place,  as  immediately  after  action  the  water 
falls  from  12  to  18  inches  below  the  crater  rim,  from  which 
point  it  rises  gradually  until  the  climax  is  reached. 

Mammoth  Paint  Pots. — Some  few  hundred  feet 
east  of  the  Fountain,  from  which  they  are  separated 
by  a fringe  of  trees,  are  situated  these  wonderful  paint 
pots.  This  remarkable  mud  caldron  has  a basin  which 
measures  40  x 60  feet,  with  a mud  rim  on  three  sides, 
which  is  from  4 to  5 feet  in  height.  In  this  basin  is  a 
mass  of  fine,  whitish  substance,  which  is  in  a state  of 
constant  agitation.  It  resembles  some  vast  boiling  pot 
of  paint  or  bed  of  mortar,  with  numerous  points  of 
ebullition;  and  the  constant  boiling  has  reduced  the  con- 
tents to  a thoroughly  mixed  mass  of  silicious  clay.  There 
is  a continuous  bubbling  up  of  mud,  producing  sounds 
like  a hoarsely  whispered  “plop,  plop,”  which  rises 
in  hemispherical  masses,  cones,  rings  and  jets.  On  the 
north  side  of  the  mud  basin  the  rim  is  low,  and  forms  the 
edge  of  a flat  of  pink  and  red  mud,  which  is  cracked  and 
seamed,  and  over  which  are  scattered  thirty  or  forty  mud 
cones,  generally  of  a pink  and  rose  color, — though  a few 
are  gray,  — averaging  from  2 to  3 feet  in  height. 

A very  interesting  section  of  country  lies  to  the  south 
of  the  Fountain  and  paint  pots,  but,  at  present,  can- 
not be  reached  with  safety.  Flere  are  situated  numer- 
ous geysers,  among  them  the  Great  Fountain,  a very 
powerful  one,  which  will  greatly  add  to  Park  attractions 
when  made  accessible.  In  one  of  these  springs  may  be 
seen  the  whitened  skeleton  of  a mountain  buffalo.  No 
king  or  saint  was  ever  more  magnificently  entombed  than 


MAMMOTH  PAINT 


4 


49 


50 


YELLOWSTONE  NATIONAL  PARK. 


this  monarch  of  the  hills  in  his  sepulcher  in  the  wilderness. 

The  only  possible  way  at  present  of  reaching  Great 
Fountain  Geyser,  with  anything  like  safety,  is  by  saddle 
animal,  following  up  the  bed  of  Fountain  Creek,  a 
small  stream  which  conducts  into  Firehole  River,  of 
which  it  is  a tributary,  the  constantly  overflowing  waters 
of  this  immediate  geyser  group. 

Leaving  the  Fountain  and  paint  pots,  the  road 
bears  to  the  west,  crossing  Fountain  Creek,  just  men- 
tioned, passing  numerous  hot  springs,  until  it  strikes 
the  west  bank  of  the  Firehole,  where  it  turns  south,  pro- 
ceeding up  that  stream  until,  emerging  from  a strip  of 
timber,  Excelsior  Geyser  is  brought  into  full  view. 
Strictly  speaking,  this  section  constitutes  the  upper  por- 
tion of  the  Lower  Basin,  and  is  about  three  miles  from  the 
Fountain  group.  Being  about  midway  between  the 
extremes  of  the  Upper  and  Lower  Basins,  however,  this 
locality  is  given  a distinct  designation,  that  of 

MIDWAY  GEYSER  BASIN. 

Excelsior  Geyser. — “Early  explorers  in  this  local- 
ity discovered,  in  1871,”  says  Dr.  Peale,  “on  the  west 
bank  of  Firehole  River,  an  immense  pit  of  rather  irregu- 
lar outline,  330  feet  in  length  by  200  feet  in  width  at  the 
widest  part.  The  water  is  of  a deep  blue  tint,  and  is 
intensely  agitated  all  the  time,  dense  clouds  of  steam 
constantly  ascending  from  it.  It  is  only  when  the  breeze 
wafts  this  aside  that  the  surface  of  the  water,  which  is  15 
or  20  feet  below  the  level  surrounding,  can  be  seen.  The 
walls  on  three  sides  are  perpendicular,  cliff-like,  and  in 
places  overhang,  having  been  worn  away  on  the  other.” 
Cliff  Caldron,  with  every  indication  of  a powerful  geyser 


EXCELSIOR  GEYSER,  FIREHOLE  RIVER 


52 


YELLOWSTONE  NATIONAL  PARK. 


with  long  intervals  of  eruption,  was,  however,  not  known 
to  be  a geyser  until  some  ten  years  later. 

Visited  by  thousands  annually,  this  interesting  section 
became  known  as  “Hell’s  Half  Acre,”  a name  it  re- 
tained till  1881,  when  discovered  by  Col.  P.  W.  Norris 
to  be  a geyser  of  great  force,  and  named  by  him  ‘ ‘ Excel- 
sior.” Its  eruptions  in  1881  began  in  the  fall,  after  the 
tourist  season  had  closed,  and  before  the  season  of  1882 
opened  had  wrought  a great  change  in  the  appearance 
of  its  crater.  Col.  Norris  witnessed  upward  of  thirty 
eruptions,  varying  from  75  to  250  feet  in  height,  at  inter- 
vals of  one  to  four  hours. 

No  further  eruptions  of  this  geyser  are  recorded  until 
early  in  the  spring  of  1888,  when  reports  became  current 
that  Excelsior  was  again  in  action,  and  many  resi- 
dents of  the  surrounding  territory  were  attracted  to  the 
Park  when  the  only  means  of  travel  was  upon  snow- 
shoes.  Eruptions  of  great  force  continued  during  the 
entire  season  of  1888,  and  kept  up  with  unabated  vigor 
during  the  succeeding  winter.  The  present  size  of  the 
crater  is  some  250  feet  in  width  by  400  feet  in  length, 
having  enlarged  quite  a good  deal  during  the  past  two 
years.  This  process  of  enlargement,  if  kept  up,  will,  in 
time,  undermine  Turquois  Spring,  and,  eventually,  Pris- 
matic Lake  also;  the  latter  fully  500  feet  distant  from 
the  geyser  crater. 

The  intervals  of  eruption  during  1888  were  at  first 
about  every  hour  and  fifteen  minutes,  increasing  toward 
the  latter  part  of  the  season  to  two  hours.  The  only 
possible  indication  of  an  approaching  display  is  the  in- 
crease in  the  volume  of  overflow,  there  being  a steady 
filling  of  the  crater  after  periods  of  activity. 


TOUR  OF  THE  PARK. 


53 


Immediately  preceding  an  eruption  a violent  upheaval 
occurs,  raising  the  entire  volume  of  water  in  the  crater 
nearly  50  feet,  when  instantly  one  or  two,  and  sometimes 
three,  terrific  explosions  occur,  followed  closely  by  the 
shooting  upward  of  columns  of  water,  and  oftentimes 
masses  of  the  rocky  formation,  to  a height  of  200  to  250 
feet.  Tons  of  rock  have  in  this  way  been  hurled  into 
Firehole  River,  some  pieces  fully  500  feet  from  the  crater, 
while  specimens  may  be  seen  scattered  all  about  the 
vicinity.  At  each  upheaval  sufficient  water  escapes  to 
raise  Firehole  River  several  inches.  The  wearing  away 
of  the  formation  at  the  outlet  of  the  “overflow”  has 
plainly  exposed  to  view  the  hoof-prints  of  buffalo,  un- 
doubtedly made  centuries  ago.  The  inactivity,  during 
1888,  of  two  of  the  largest  geysers  in  the  Upper  Basin  is 
attributed  to  the  wonderful  activity  of  Excelsior, 
which,  at  each  eruption,  ejects  as  much  water  as  all  the 
geysers  in  this  basin  combined.  The  afternoon  displays 
are  considered  the  best,  owing  to  the  presence  of  less 
steam  than  earlier  in  the  day,  and  from  the  main  road 
fully  as  satisfactory  a view  is  obtained. 

Turquois  Spring  is  situated  about  150  feet  north 
from  Excelsior,  being  a silent  pool,  about  100  feet  in 
diameter,  and  remarkable  for  its  beautifully  blue  trans- 
parent water.  There  used  to  be  a constant  overflow 
from  this  spring,  which  was  carried  into  the  Firehole 
River  through  a channel  some  2 feet  wide  and  8 or  10 
inches  in  depth,  its  sides  and  bottom  being  most  ex- 
quisitely colored;  but  during  the  latter  part  of  the  season 
of  1888  the  waters  of  the  spring  suddenly  settled  some 
10  feet,  since  which  time  no  overflow  has  taken  place. 
West  of  Turquois  Spring,  and,  in  itself,  a marvel,  is  a 


54 


YELLOWSTONE  NATIONAL  PARK. 


small  spring  of  cold  water,  which,  though  rather  ‘ ‘ brack- 
ish” to  be  palatable,  is  attractive  as  being  the  sole  cold 
spring  in  this  region  of  thermal  waters. 

Prismatic  Lake. — Probably  the  very  largest,  and 
certainly  one  of  the  most  beautiful  springs  in  the  entire 
Park  Region,  is  that  designated  by  the  above  appellation. 
It  is  situated  some  500  feet  or  so  west  of  Excelsior  Gey- 
ser, its  dimensions  being  250  x 350  or  400  feet.  Over 
the  central  pit,  or  bowl,  of  this  spring  the  water  is  of  a 
deep  blue  color,  changing  to  green  toward  the  margin, 
while  that  in  the  shallower  portion  of  the  lake  surround- 
ing the  central  basin  has  a yellow  tint  gradually  fading 
into  orange.  Outside  its  rim  there  is  a brilliant  red  de- 
posit, which  shades  into  purples,  browns  and  grays,  all 
seemingly  painted  upon  aground  of  grayish  white,  which 
forms  the  mound,  built  up  of  layers  of  silicious  deposit, 
upon  which  the  spring  is  situated.  This  coloring  is  in 
vivid  bands,  which  are  strikingly  marked  and  distinct. 
The  water  flowing  off  in  every  direction,  with  constant 
wave-like  pulsations,  over  the  artistically  scalloped  and 
slightly  raised  rim  of  the  lake,  has  formed  a succes- 
sion of  terraces,  each  a few  inches  in  height,  down  the 
slopes  of  the  mound,  particularly  upon  its  southern  face. 
It  is  impossible  to  exaggerate  the  delicacy  and  richness 
of  the  coloring  in  and  about  this  wonderful  phenomenon 
of  nature.  The  temperature  of  the  water  is  about  146 
degrees  Fahrenheit,  and  the  constantly  rising  clouds  of 
steam  sometimes  render  difficult  a good  view  of  the  lake 
surface;  but  viewed  from  the  proper  standpoint  (gener- 
ally with  the  sun  to  the  back),  these  same  volumes  of 
steam  are  exceedingly  attractive,  reflecting  the  colors  of 
the  rainbow  or  prism,  whence  the  name  of  the  spring, 


TOUR  OF  THE  PARK. 


55 


though  some  attribute  it  to  the  variegated  tints  of  its 
waters.  Leaving  Excelsior,  the  road  passes  numerous 
springs  and  pools,  and,  about  half  a mile  to  the  south, 
intersects  the  main  road  between  Upper  and  Lower 
Basins  which  skirts  along  the  west  side  of  Midway 
Basin. 

The  entire  drive  from  Midway  to  the  Upper  Basin, 
some  five  miles,  is  among  these  natural  wonders,  but 
tourists  usually  proceed  to  the  hotel  located  at  the  ex- 
treme south  end  of  the  Upper  Basin,  before  beginning  a 
minute  and  detailed  examination  of  them. 


TOUR  OF  THE  PARK. 


57 


UPPER  GEYSER  BASIN. 

The  following,  from  the  facile  pen  of  Mr.  John  Hyde, 
is  one  of  the  finest  general  descriptions  of  this  basin  ever 
written:  “The  principal  geysers  of  the  Park,  which  are 

also  the  most  powerful  in  the  known  world,  are  situated 
in  this  basin,  which  extends  from  Old  Faithful  down  the 
main  Firehole  River  to  a point  just  below  the  mouth  of 
Little  Firehole  River,  arid  along  Iron  Spring  Creek,  a 
branch  of  the  last  named  stream.  The  more  important 
springs  and  geysers  are  scattered  along  the  main  river. 
This  basin  is  about  four  square  miles  in  extent,  and  is 
triangular  in  shape,  owing  to  the  convergence  of  Firehole 
and  Little  Firehose  rivers  as  they  flow  northward.  The 
chief  geysers  are  contained  within  an  area  of  perhaps 
one  square  mile,  along  the  course  of  the  main  stream 
and  on  either  side  of  it.  The  main  river  flows  from 
southeast  to  northwest  through  the  basin,  taking  a more 
northerly  course,  however,  after  the  waters  of  Iron  Spring 
Creek  and  the  Little  Firehole  unite  with  it.  The  volume 
of  the  main  stream  is  sometimes  greatly  increased,  and 
very  rapidly,  too,  just  after  eruptions  of  some  of  the 
larger  geysers,  and  its  temperature  is  noticeably  affected 
by  these  springs.  The  surface  of  this  basin  is  a succes- 
sion of  knolls  and  ridges  crowned  with  geysers  and  boil- 
ing springs.  On  every  side  are  heavily  timbered 
mountain  slopes,  1,500  feet  or  more  in  height,  with  here 
and  there  outcroppings  or  escarpments  of  rough  basaltic 
rocks  from  the  dark  groundwork  of  pines.  Clouds  of 
steam  hang  like  a pall  over  the  basin  and  slender  columns 
of  vapor  float  gracefully  and  silently  upward  from  among 
the  tree-tops  of  the  surrounding  forest,  betraying  the 


5» 


YELLOWSTONE  NATIONAL  PARK. 


presence  of  springs  hidden  away  in  the  dark  solitudes  of 
primeval  nature.  The  air  is  laden  with  sulphurous  fumes 
and  the  quivering  earth  full  of  rumbling,  gurgling  sounds. 
Stupendous  fountains  of  boiling  water,  veiled  in  spray, 
shoot  upward  at  varying  heights  like  reversed  cascades, 
glistening  and  scintillating  in  the  sunlight  until,  their  up- 
heaving force  expended,  they  fall  in  torrents  which  shake 
the  ground.  Of  course  the  various  geysers  of  the  basin 
are  never  simultaneously  in  action.  The  periods  of  erup- 
tion of  all  of  them  are  more  or  less  irregular.  Many 
geysers,  too,  which  now  exist  will  doubtless  sooner  or 
later  cease  operation  — retire  from  business,  as  it  were  — 
and  new  ones  will  form  to  take  their  places. 

‘ ‘ An  excellent  point  from  which  to  obtain  a compre- 
hensive view  of  the  Upper  Geyser  Basin,  is  a high  mound 
near  Old  Faithful,  formerly  the  crater  of  a geyser,  of 
which  nothing  now  remains  except  a small  steaming, 
gurgling  vent.  Here  the  entire  ‘band’  of  geysers  may 
be  heard  as  they  give  their  concert  with  hot  water  trum- 
pets in  perfect  diapason,  each  performer,  at  irregular 
intervals,  taking  a solo  part,  and  uttering  his  loudest 
tones  in  harmonic  combination  of  pitch  and  measure. 
Close  at  hand,  on  the  right,  is  Old  Faithful,  all  that  its 
name  implies;  in  the  foreground,  the  Castle,  looking  like 
a feudal  stronghold;  to  the  right,  across  the  river,  the 
Bee  Hive  with  its  shapely  crater;  a few  rods  beyond, 
Sapphire  Pool,  out  of  which  the  stupendous  Giantess 
plays;  close  by  are  the  Lion,  Lioness  and  two  Cubs, 
each  of  which  when  aroused  to  action  inspires  terror  by 
its  growling.  Further  down  the  stream,  on  the  right- 
hand  side,  behind  an  intervening  point  of  pines,  are  the 
Sawmill,  which  keeps  up  its  harsh  burring  sound,  and 


TOUR  OF  THE  PARK. 


59 


the  Grand,  which  twice  daily  makes  a display  of  its 
majestic  power.  Besides  these,  there  are  many  other 
geysers  of  minor  caliber,  as  well  as  countless  steam  vents 
and  jets  of  scalding  water,  from  all  of  which  flow  in- 
numerable rills  which  are  beautifully  stained  in  brilliant 
dyes  by  the  mineral  deposit.  Turning  the  eye  again  to 
the  left  bank  of  the  Firehole  and  looking  beyond  the 
broad  bowl  of  azure-tinted  water  which  almost  laves  the 
base  of  the  Castle,  a towering  column  of  steam  marks  the 
location  of  the  Giant,  standing,  with  high  cleft  cone,  close 
beside  the  river  brink,  in  the  midst  of  another  group  of 
important  geysers, — his  surrounding  retainers, — all  noisy 
and  serving  as  vents  for  their  brooding  master,  only 
ceasing  their  turbulence  and  cowering,  as  if  in  mute  ter- 
ror, when  his  paroxysms  of  rage  become  ungovernable. 
A short  distance  to  the  left  of  this  Colossus  is  the  Grotto, 
whose  mazy  labyrinths  are  thickly  incrusted  with  pearls 
of  dazzling  luster.  Upon  a gentle  acclivity,  not  far  to 
the  westward,  the  Splendid,  a young  and  energetic 
geyser,  hurls  upward  a majestic  column  which  it  decks 
with  luminous  vapor  like  silvery  drapery.  Further  on, 
toward  the  south,  near  the  extreme  end  of  the  basin, 
are  the  Fan,  with  its  diverging  jets,  and  the  Riverside, 
rearing  itself  from  the  very  brink  of  the  stream,  each 
frequent  in  action,  the  last  named  shooting  a strangely 
curved  column  which  breaks  into  spray  and  falls  into  the 
waters  of  the  river  like  gleaming  threads  of  silver. 

“There  are  no  less  than  440  springs  and  geysers,  ac- 
cording to  Dr.  Hayden’s  latest  survey,  in  the  Upper  Gey- 
ser Basin.  Of  these  at  least  twenty-six  are  known  to  be 
really  geysers.  Among  the  springs  are  scores,  the  rare 
beauty  of  which,  with  respect  to  color,  depth  and  trans- 


TOUR  OF  THE  PARK. 


6l 


lucency  of  their  waters,  and  the  delicacy,  variety  and 
richness  of  their  silicious  crystallizations  astonish  the  be- 
holder. Geysers  exist,  it  is  true,  in  Iceland  and  New 
Zealand,  but  there  are  none  to  be  found  in  groups  so 
magnificent  as  here,  nor  are  they  likely  to  be  reproduced 
elsewhere  on  so  grand  a scale.” 

The  following  more  detailed  description  ot  the  chiel 
geysers  and  springs  will  serve  to  acquaint  the  reader 
with  the  peculiar  characteristics  of  each. 

Old  Faithful. — Less  than  1,000  feet  east,  and  in 
plain  sight  from  the  hotel  at  Upper  Geyser  Basin,  is  located 
this  reliable  friend  of  the  tourist.  Every  sixty-three  min- 
utes (with  rarely  a variation  of  five  minutes),  day  and 
night,  summer  and  winter,  this  wonderful  freak  of  nature 
gives  its  exhibition,  without  money  and  without  price. 
Situated  at  the  south  end  of  the  basin,  it  commands  a 
clear  view  of  nearly  every  other  object  of  interest,  and  its 
moonlight  displays  are  sights  once  seen  never  to  be  for- 
gotten. Its  eruptions  begin  with  a few  spasmodic  spurts, 
during  which  considerable  water  is  thrown  out,  and  these 
are  followed  in  from  five  to  eight  minutes  by  a column 
of  hot  water  two  feet  in  diameter,  which  is  projected  up- 
ward to  a height  of  125  to  150  feet,  where  it  remains 
apparently  stationary  for  about  three  minutes.  The 
position  and  direction  of  the  sun  and  wind  vary  the  ap- 
pearance of  this  geyser,  which  is  one  of  the  most  popular 
in  the  Park,  because  of  the  remarkable  regularity  with 
which  its  eruptions  occur,  and  the  excellent  opportunities 
afforded  for  observation.  Its  crater,  an  oblong  opening 
2x6  feet  on  the  inside  and  4 x 8 on  the  outside,  is  situ- 
ated on  a mound  of  geyserite,  measuring  at  the  base 
145  x 215  feet,  and  at  the  top  20  x 54  feet,  the  whole 


62 


YELLOWSTONE  NATIONAL  PARK. 


rising  about  12  feet  above  the  surrounding  level.  This 
mound  is  composed  of  layers  of  deposit  in  a succession  of 
distinctly  marked  terraces  which  are  full  of  shallow,  basin- 
like pools,  the  water  in  which  is  clear  as  crystal,  and  their 
edges  or  rims  exquisitely  beaded  and  fretted,  their  bot- 
toms showing  delicate  tints  of  rose,  white,  saffron,  orange, 
brown  and  gray.  The  north  end  of  the  crater  has  large 
globular  masses  of  beaded,  pearly  deposit,  and  its  throat 
is  of  a dark  yellow  or  rusty  color. 

Bee  Hive. — Crossing  the  foot-bridge  leading  to  the 
east  side  of  Firehole  River,  this  geyser  is  found  about  100 
feet  from  the  river  bank.  Its  name  was  suggested  by 
the  peculiar  shape  of  its  cone,  which  is  about  4 feet 
in  height,  3 feet  in  diameter  at  the  top,  by  7 feet  at 
the  base,  and  nearly  circular.  Its  nozzle-like  opening, 
or  crater,  is  about  18  inches  across  at  the  apex,  narrow- 
ing gradually  till  the  base  of  the  cone  is  reached.  The 
Bee  Hive’s  eruptions  are  irregular,  generally  occurring 
about  three  times  daily.  It  has,  however,  been  known  to 
have  periods  of  activity  not  more  than  three  hours  apart 
and,  per  contra , to  remain  inactive  for  several  weeks. 
There  are,  usually,  several  eruptions,  about  three  hours 
apart,  immediately  following  action  of  the  Giantess. 

There  is  no  terrace-shaped  deposit  surrounding  this 
geyser,  as  is  the  case  with  most  of  the  others,  and  it  is  the 
only  one  close  up  to  which  persons  can  approach  with 
perfect  security  while  in  action,  as  no  rocks  are  thrown 
out,  and  so  hot  is  the  water  ejected  that  it,  for  the  most 
part,  evaporates  while  in  the  air.  The  height  attained 
varies  from  170  to  220  feet.  A miniature  geyser,  or  in- 
dicator, a few  feet  from  its  base,  is,  generally  speaking, 
a faithful  forerunner  of  activity  in  this  geyser,  by  shoot- 


TOUR  OF  THE  PARK. 


63 


ing  up  jets  or  spurts  of  water,  which  are  followed  in  about 
fifteen  minutes  by  a column  of  steam  and  water  from  the 
main  crater  hurled  upward  with  great  force  and  in  a 
steady  stream. 

Giantess. — Some  300  feet  east  from  the  Bee  Hive, 
upon  the  highest  point  of  elevation  in  this  portion  of  the 
Upper  Basin,  is  located  the  Giantess,  considered  by 
many  a geyser  of  unusual  importance,  whose  eruptions, 
occurring  at  intervals  of  fourteen  days,  none  should  fail  to 
see.  However,  owing  to  the  fact  that,  in  order  to  witness 
and  fully  appreciate  its  entire  display,  one  must  remain  in 
its  vicinity  at  least  twelve  hours,  this  geyser  is  often  disap- 
pointing. Its  crater,  bowl-shaped,  and  some  60  feet  in 
depth,  is  24  x 30  feet  in  size  at  the  surface,  and  is 
wholly  devoid  of  the  highly  colored  ornamentation  and 
cone  so  characteristic  of  other  geysers  in  this  region. 
As  the  crater  rapidly  fills  with  water  after  an  eruption, 
it  resembles,  to  most  visitors,  a large,  slightly  agitated 
pool  of  sapphire-tinted  water,  with  no  outward  indication 
of  being  the  powerful  geyser  which  it  really  is.  At  the 
beginning  of  an  eruption  the  entire  contents  of  the  crater 
are  instantly  forced  out,  flooding  the  whole  region  round 
about.  Relieved  from  this  immense  pressure  of  water, 
the  geyser  at  once  begins  to  eject  forked- like  columns  of 
water  and  steam  into  the  air,  throwing  them  to  a height 
of  from  60  to  100  feet  above  the  surface.  These  displays 
continue  at  short  intervals  throughout  a period  of  about 
twelve  hours,  or  until  the  water  in  the  geyser  tube  is  en- 
tirely exhausted,  when  an  interesting  “steam  period” 
takes  place,  lasting  nearly  an  hour,  and  producing  a 
roaring  sound  audible  in  all  parts  of  the  basin,  and  when 
occurring  at  night  often  awakens  guests  at  the  hotel. 


64 


YELLOWSTONE  NATIONAL  PARK. 


In  the  earlier  stages  of  eruption,  during  which  the 
emptying  of  the  crater  takes  place,  shocks,  similar  to 
those  produced  by  earthquakes,  are  distinctly  felt 
throughout  the  basin,  while  the  disappearance  of  adja- 
cent springs,  and  the  generally  succeeding  activity  of 
the  Bee  Hive  give  rise  to  the  theory  of  subterranean 
connection  between  geysers  and  springs  upon  this 
“bench.” 

The  Sponge.  — A short  distance  to  the  north  of  the 
Giantess  is  a curious  little  geyser  called  the  Sponge, 
whose  slightly  raised,  circular  cone  strongly  resembling 
a huge  sponge  in  the  character  and  color  of  its  forma- 
tion, attracts  the  eye  of  the  passer- by. 

Lion,  Lioness  and  Cubs. — This  interesting  group 
is  next  visited.  The  Lioness  and  Cubs  occupy  a con- 
spicuous mound  of  geyserite  to  the  west  of  the  Lion, 
which  has  an  irregular  flat-topped  cone  about  four  feet  in 
height,  and  is  separated  from  the  rest  of  the  group  by  a 
slight  depression.  Eruptions  of  the  Lion  occur  daily; 
those  of  the  Lioness  are  irregular  as  to  time,  and,  as  the 
Cubs  play  more  frequently,  it  often  happens  that  the 
Lioness  and  Cubs  play  together,  though  it  rarely  occurs 
that  the  Lion  and  Lioness  are  seen  in  eruption  at  one 
and  the  same  time.  The  former  is  the  most  powerful  of 
the  group,  and  throws  a column  of  water  50  or  60  feet 
high,  frequently  continuing  in  action  ten  or  fifteen 
minutes. 

Sawmill  Geyser. — Leaving  the  group  just  de- 
scribed, the  pathway  leads  down  the  basin,  passing 
through  a point  of  timber  close  by  the  river,  emerging 
from  which  one  is  confronted  by  a number  of  active 
springs  and  small  geysers  (situated  upon  a “bench” 


TOUR  OF  THE  PARK. 


65 


similar  to  the  one  just  left),  among-  which  are  the  Tardy, 
Bulger,  Spasmodic  and  Sawmill,  the  last  named  being 
the  chief  attraction,  as  well  as  the  largest  of  the  group. 
This  locality  may  be  also  reached  from  the  west  side  of 
the  river  by  means  of  a foot  bridge  near  the  Castle. 

The  basin  of  the  Sawmill  is  shallow,  and  about  40 
feet  in  diameter,  inclosing  another  basin  of  about  half  its 
size,  in  the  centre  of  which  is  located  its  funnel-shaped 
crater,  some  seven  feet  across  the  top,  and  sloping  to  a 
small  orifice.  Its  eruptions  are  very  frequent,  usually 
five  or  six  a day,  each  continuing  in  operation  fully  an 
hour.  The  peculiar  noise  accompanying  activity  (sug- 
gesting its  name),  coupled  with  its  spiteful  vigor,  render 
this  geyser  quite  attractive. 

The  Grand  and  Turban. — At  the  base  of  a rocky 
bluff,  some  500  feet  east  from  and  nearly  opposite  the 
Castle,  are  situated  the  above  important  geysers.  An 
observer  is  naturally  led  to  suppose  that  the  irregular, 
pit-shaped  crater,  noticeably  prominent,  is  that  from 
. which  the  Grand  plays;  such  is  not  the  fact,  however, 
as  this  crater  is  merely  a water-basin  or  reservoir,  un- 
doubtedly having  connection  with  the  Turban,  but  en- 
tirely unconnected  with  the  Grand,  which  plays  from  an 
opening  situated  a few  feet  to  the  south,  surrounded  by 
cushion-like  masses  of  geyseritic  formation.  Eruptions 
of  the  Grand  are  somewhat  irregular,  usually  occurring 
at  intervals  of  from  nine  to  thirty  hours;  its  inactivity 
during  the  latter  part  of  the  season  of  1888  being  attributed 
to  the  extraordinary  demonstrations  of  Excelsior.  The 
outbursts  of  the  Grand  are  among  the  finest  to  be  wit- 
nessed in  the  Park,  having  a series  of  eight  to  twelve 
distinct  eruptions,  lasting  from  twenty  to  thirty  minutes, 


5 


66 


YELLOWSTONE  NATIONAL  PARK. 


and  throwing  at  each  discharge  forked  columns  of  water 
to  a height  of  200  feet,  allowing  ample  time  for  visitors, 
who  may  chance  to  be  in  any  other  part  of  the  basin,  to 
reach  its  vicinity  in  time  to  witness  some,  at  least,  of  its 
several  magnificent  displays.  The  Turban  plays,  mainly, 
from  a fissure-like  opening  in  its  formation  immediately 
north  of  its  main  crater,  which,  meantime,  is  greatly 
agitated,  often  overflowing,  and  discharging  quite  large 
quantities  of  its  hot  flood  into  the  crater  of  the  Grand, 
just  below  it  on  the  south.  The  frequency  of  the  Turban’s 
eruptions  occasionally  presents  the  unusually  fine  spec- 
tacle of  both  geysers,  the  Grand  and  Turban,  in  action 
at  the  same  time.  On  the  way  from  this  point  to  the 
Giant  and  Grotto,  Beauty  Spring  is  passed,  one  of  the 
largest  silent  pools  in  the  Upper  Basin,  remarkable  for 
the  vivid  coloring  and  exquisite  beauty  of  its  highly  or- 
namented margin,  and  its  limpid  blue  water.  Near  by 
are  situated  many  interesting  springs  and  pools  yet  un- 
named, among  them  a miniature  geyser  called  the  Eco- 
nomic, from  the  curious  fact  that  there  is  no  overflow  nor 
waste  whatever  from  it,  as  its  waters,  though  frequently 
thrown  6 or  8 feet  in  the  air,  fall  again  into  its  crater 
and  disappear. 

The  Giant. — It  is  nearly  a mile  from  the  hotel  to 
this  monarch  of  geysers,  situated,  like  many  others,  in 
close  proximity  to  Firehole  River.  Its  cone,  about  10 
feet  in  height,  though  some  200  feet  from  the  roadway, 
is  conspicuous.  A few  feet  to  the  north  is  an  irregular 
mound,  from  which  considerable  steam  escapes  from  sun- 
dry small  holes,  undoubtedly  connected  in  some  manner 
with  the  geyser  and  acting  as  its  escape  valves.  The 
platform  of  deposit  upon  which  the  cone  stands  is  about 


68 


YELLOWSTONE  NATIONAL  PARK. 


75  feet  in  diameter.  The  cone  is  broken  on  the  west  side 
from  the  apex  nearly  to  its  base,  affording  a good  view 
of  the  contents  of  the  crater,  which  are  almost  constantly 
in  a state  of  turbulent  boiling  and  splashing.  In  1881 
the  break  in  the  cone  was  not  nearly  so  large,  being  not 
more  than  half  its  present  proportions.  This  is  undoubt- 
edly the  result  of  unusually  violent  eruptions.  The 
Giant  usually  “plays”  every  six  days,  for  a period  of 
one  and  one-half  to  two  hours.  Its  inactivity  during  1888 
was  by  many  attributed  to  the  same  cause  which  is  sup- 
posed to  have  affected  the  Grand  and  which  has  already 
been  alluded  to.  When  in  action,  an  immense  column  of 
water  is  lifted  250  feet  into  the  air  at  its  initial  outburst, 
the  height  of  the  column  gradually  decreasing  until  the 
close  of  the  display,  which  is  preceded  by  a rumbling 
sound  not  unlike  a distant  train  of  moving  cars.  Not  until 
1887  did  the  eruptions  of  this  geyser  take  place  in  the  day 
time,  and  those  fortunate  enough  to  have  been  eye-wit- 
nesses of  its  giganticdisplay  have  enjoyed  a treat  most  rare. 

The  Oblong. — Quite  near  the  river  bank  and  a short 
distance  south  from  the  Giant  is  situated  the  Oblong. 
Its  crater  is  about  30  x 50  feet  in  size,  — hence  its  name, — 
the  interior  of  which,  immediately  following  an  eruption, 
is  exposed  to  a depth  of  several  feet,  and,  lined,  as  it  is, 
with  large  globular  masses  of  formation,  affords  the  finest 
view  of  interior  geyser  structure  to  be  seen  in  the  entire 
Park  Region.  Two  large  openings  can  be  clearly  seen  in 
the  bottom  of  the  crater,  and  when  the  water  is  not  agi- 
tated the  eye  readily  penetrates  these  to  unknown  depths. 
Eruptions  of  the  Oblong  occur  about  every  six  hours, 
lasting  only  a few  minutes,  during  which  the  contents  of 
the  crater  are  raised  bodily  some  20  feet. 


CRATER  OF  OBLONG  GEYSER 


69 


70 


YELLOWSTONE  NATIONAL  PARK. 


The  Grotto. — By  far  the  most  curious  geyser  cone 
of  all  is  that  of  the  Grotto,  situated  close  by  the  road- 
side, some  500  feet  northwest  of  the  Giant.  The  various 
cave-like  openings  in  its  peculiarly  shaped  cone  give  rise 
to  its  name.  Its  eruptions  take  place  about  four  times 
daily,  each  display  lasting  about  half  an  hour,  though, 
owing  to  its  singular  construction,  its  waters  are  not 
thrown  to  any  considerable  height  (scarcely  20  feet). 
During  eruptive  periods,  however,  immense  volumes  of 
steam  escape  with  great  force.  Separated  from  the  main 
cone  some  20  feet  is  a smaller  crater  which  acts  with  the 
main  geyser  during  eruptions. 

Riverside  Geyser. — A short  distance  above  the 
wagon  bridge  across  Firehole  River  is  seen  the  Riverside 
Geyser,  whose  cone  is  close  to  the  water’s  edge;  it  con- 
sists of  two  chimney-like  craters,  the  larger  being  at  the 
same  time  the  higher.  The  geyser  “plays”  from  the 
lower  opening  only,  though  visitors  are  apt  to  arrive  at 
a reverse  conclusion  when  viewing  the  locality  between 
periods  of  eruption.  An  overflow  of  water  is  a certain 
indication  of  approaching  activity,  occurring  about  thirty 
minutes  previous  to  eruptions  and  continuing  until  the 
outburst,  which  takes  place  about  every  eight  hours, 
throwing  an  arching  column  to  a height  of  80  or  90  feet, 
the  entire  contents  of  the  discharge  falling  into  the  river. 

The  Fan  and  Mortar. — On  the  east  bank  of  the 
Firehole,  about  300  feet  below  Riverside  Bridge,  are  lo- 
cated these  quite  interesting  geysers.  The  former  has 
an  eruption  every  eight  hours,  generally  following  the 
Riverside,  its  ejected  waters  spreading  out  in  fan -shaped 
jets,  from  the  fact  of  its  having  two  crater  orifices  which 
throw  out  diverging  streams.  The  pink  geyserite  form- 


TOUR  OF  THE  PARK. 


71 


ing  its  crater  is  quite  unlike  that  of  any  other  geyser. 
The  Mortar,  close  by,  is  very  uncertain  as  to  its  periods  of 
activity,  and  when  viewed  from  the  bridge  above  alluded 
to,  resembles  in  its  eruptions  that  particular  piece  of  ord- 
nance from  which  it  derives  its  name. 

The  Splendid. — One  of  the  most  remarkable  geysers 
in  the  Upper  Basin  is  the  Splendid.  It  is  located  fully 
1,000  feet  west  of  the  Giant  and  a short  distance  south 
from  a prominent  mound  of  geyserite,  called,  from  its 
color,  the  White  Pyramid.  The  entire  absence  of  any- 
thing like  cone  structure,  and  the  numerous  crater-like 
openings  in  its  vicinity,  puzzle  one  at  first  to  locate  the 
geyser  proper;  however,  the  extreme  western  opening, 
nearest  the  knoll  and  timber,  is  that  from  which  the 
Splendid  plays;  the  most  peculiar  feature  of  which  is, 
that  its  eruptions  occur  at  intervals  of  three  hours,  every 
other  day,  only,  and  as  it  has  the  reputation  of  being  a 
frequent  “spouter,”  persons  happening  to  visit  it  on  its 
quiet  days  are  apt  to  find  their  expectations  disappoint- 
ingly blasted.  When  in  action  it  throws  a powerful 
stream  fully  150  feet  in  height,  increasing  in  force  very 
perceptibly  during  the  earlier  stages  of  its  eruptions,  and 
not  reaching  the  climax  for  several  minutes,  apparently 
maintaining  its  greatest  vigor  from  five  to  eight  minutes. 
Quite  unlike  other  geysers,  the  Splendid  throws  its  stream 
at  a sharp  angle  instead  of  vertically,  which  fact,  when 
it  was  first  discovered,  caused  it  to  be  called  The  Comet; 
this  designation,  however,  soon  gave  way  to  its  present 
more  appropriate  appellation. 

During  the  afternoon  eruptions,  if  the  sun  be  visible, 
highly  colored  rainbows  add  to  the  rare  beauty  of  the 
displays,  and  when  seen,  as  it  occasionally  is,  in  conjunc- 


Mi 


TOUR  OF  THE  PARK. 


73 


tion  with  eruptive  activity  of  other  small  geysers  of  the 
Splendid  group,  produces  a truly  marvelous  effect.  No 
perceptible  change  in  the  appearance  of  its  crater  follows 
or  precedes  periods  of  activity,  and  even  during  its 
quiet  days  the  same  violent  boiling  of  its  waters  is  always 
the  subject  of  noticeable  comment. 

The  Punch  Bowl. — Both  the  footpath  and  wagon 
road  leading  westward  from  the  Splendid  toward  Black 
Sand  Basin  and  Specimen  Lake  pass  the  Punch  Bowl, 
by  far  the  handsomest  spring  of  its  peculiar  class  to  be 
found  in  the  geyser  region,  if  not  in  the  world.  Situated 
on  the  summit  of  a small  mound  of  silicious  deposit,  some 
five  feet  above  the  general  level,  it  is  about  10  feet  in 
diameter,  with  a glittering  rim  of  brilliantly  colored  for- 
mation 1 8 inches  in  height.  The  constant  boiling  of  its 
contents,  though  only  a small  part  of  its  surface  is  agi- 
tated, as  the  bubbles  of  escaping  steam  and  gas  arise, 
produces  a wave-like  undulation  over  the  entire  spring 
and  gives  it  a steady  and  not  inconsiderable  overflow. 
A small  cave-like  opening  on  one  side  of  the  mound  or 
cone  is  very  handsome  and  much  admired,  having  the 
appearance  of  being  lined  with  satin  of  the  rarest  beauty 
and  texture.  Early  visitors  to  the  Park  during  the  sea- 
sons of  1873  and  1875  speak  of  this  spring  as  being  an 
active  geyser,  while  during  1888  similar  reports  gained 
currency.  Nothing,  however,  is  certainly  known  as  to 
the  correctness  of  these  reports,  though  they  are  highly 
probable. 

Black  Sand  Basin  and  Specimen  Lake. — The 

roadway  continuing  westward  from  the  Punch  Bowl  ter- 
minates at  the  Black  Sand  Spring.  A footpath,  how- 
ever, leading  to  the  hotel,  may  be  followed,  along  which, 


74 


YELLOWSTONE  NATIONAL  PARK. 


on  either  hand,  are  to  be  seen  many  objects  of  interest, 
including  cones  of  extinct  geysers  surrounded  by  large 
trees,  and  the  Three  Sisters,  a trinity  of  springs  of  much 
interest.  West  of  Black  Sand  Basin,  along  Iron  Spring 
Creek,  are  hundreds  of  springs  and  small  geysers  well 
worth  a visit  of  inspection,  if  time  and  inclination  are  not 
lacking.  Dr.  Peale’s  description  of  Black  Sand  Spring 
is  interestingly  comprehensive,  and  is  as  follows  : “This 
is  one  of  the  most  beautiful  springs  in  the  Upper  Basin. 
It  has  a delicate  rim,  with  toad-stool-like  masses  around 
it.  The  basin  slopes  rather  gently  toward  a central 
aperture  that,  to  the  eye,  appears  to  have  no  bottom. 
The  water  in  the  spring  has  a delicate  turquois  tint,  and 
as  the  breeze  sweeps  across  its  surface,  dispelling  the 
steam,  the  effect  of  the  rippling  of  the  water  is  very 
beautiful.  The  sloping  sides  are  covered  with  a light 
brown  crust;  sometimes  it  is  a rather  dark  cream  color. 
The  funnel  is  about  40  feet  in  diameter,  while  the  entire 
space  covered  by  the  spring  is  about  55  x 60  feet,  out- 
side the  rim  of  which  is  a border  of  pitch-stone  (obsidian) 
sand  or  gravel  sloping  25  feet.  From  its  west  side  flows 
a considerable  stream,  forming  a most  beautiful  channel, 
in  which  the  coloring  presents  a remarkable  variety  of 
shades;  the  extremely  delicate  pinks  are  mingled  with 
equally  delicate  tints  of  saffron  and  yellow,  and  here  and 
there  shades  of  green.”  The  overflow  from  this  spring 
spreads  out  over  a large  and  very  interesting  area,  called 
Specimen  Lake,  which  deserves  more  than  a passing  no- 
tice. Absorption  of  the  surrounding  silica  has  destroyed 
many  of  the  trees  in  the  vicinity,  the  dry,  lifeless  trunks 
adding  to  the  attractiveness  of  the  place,  geologically 
speaking,  by  affording  the  appearance  of  petrifactions. 


TOUR  OF  THE  PARK. 


75 


Castle  Geyser. — The  Castle  is  at  once  recognized, 
as  it  occupies  a very  prominent  position  close  by  a point 
of  timber  midway  between  the  Grand  Geyser  and  the 
hotel.  It  is  visible  from  nearly  all  points  of  the  basin, 
the  main  road  being  around  its  west  and  south  sides. 
The  great  amount  of  deposit,  perhaps  ioo  feet  in  diame- 
ter at  its  base,  and  the  possession  of  the  largest  cone  in 
the  whole  region,  while  giving  it  an  air  of  conspicuous- 
ness, at  the  same  time  indicate  that  it  is  one  of  the  oldest 
active  geysers  in  the  Park.  The  broken  condition  of  its 
cone  on  the  east  side  renders  possible  an  easy  ascent  to 
its  summit,  which  is  about  20  feet  across.  The  orifice  of 
the  geyser  tube  in  the  top  of  the  cone  is  about  three  feet 
in  diameter,  quite  round,  and  is  lined  with  a formation  of 
bright  orange  color. 

Eruptions  of  the  Castle  occur  at  intervals  of  about 
thirty  hours,  preceded  by  the  occasional  throwing  out  of 
jets  of  water  to  the  height  of  15  or  20  feet,  perhaps. 
These  premonitory  symptoms  of  eruption  generally  con- 
tinue five  or  six  hours,  when  more  violent  demon- 
strations, during  which  columns  of  water  are  shot  up- 
ward to  a height  of  fully  75  feet,  ensue,  and,  continuing 
for  half  an  hour  or  so,  are  followed  by  a “ steam  period  ’ ’ 
similar  to  that  of  the  Giantess.  Several  times  each  sea- 
son it  has  eruptions  of  an  unusual  character,  in  which  its 
columns  of  water  are  thrown  to  twice  their  usual  height 
and  its  subsequent  “steam  periods”  are  proportionately 
forcible.  A violent  boiling  spring  is  situated  near  the 
base  of  its  cone,  on  the  north  side,  and  used  to  be  a 
favorite  resort  of  the  “camper-out”  in  earlier  days, 
as  excellent  coffee  can  be  made  in  this  spring  in  fifteen 
minutes,  and  other  edibles,  requiring  the  action  of  boil- 


76 


CASTLE,  BEE  HIVE  AND  OLD  FAITHFUL  GEYSERS. 


TOUR  OF  THE  PARR. 


77 


ing  water  to  prepare  them  for  the  table,  are  well  and 
thoroughly  cooked  in  a correspondingly  short  time. 

The  large,  crested  spring,  ioo  feet  north  from  the 
Castle,  is  usually  very  handsome.  It  generally  is  filled  to 
overflowing,  and  the  bottom  and  edges  of  the  channel 
leading  out  of  its  north  side  are  very  highly  and  beautifully 
colored.  This  spring  is  some  20  feet  in  diameter,  and  is 
commonly  known  as  Castle  Well. 

The  road  between  the  Lower  and  Upper  Basins,  on 
the  west  side  of  Excelsior,  is  very  fine;  its  long  avenues, 
here  artistically  constructed  among  native  pines,  combin- 
ing grateful  shade  with  pleasant  fragrance;  there,  skirting 
the  rippling  margin  of  a charming  little  lake;  making  it, 
on  the  whole,  one  of  the  most  enjoyable  drives  in  the 
Park.  Several  points  of  interest  are  passed  by  this  road. 
Among  them,  a short  distance  below  Riverside  Bridge,  is 

Morning  Glory  Spring,  a silent  pool,  some  20  feet 
in  diameter,  overflowing  slightly  at  the  west.  The 
peculiar  shape  of  its  funnel-like  crater,  whose  walls  are 
delicately  colored,  together  with  the  beautiful  transpa- 
rency of  its  waters,  suggests  its  very  appropriate  name, 
and  it  is  best  seen  from  a stage  or  carriage,  a slightly  ele- 
vated point  of  observation  affording  a better  view.  Half 
a mile  below  is 

Artemisia  Spring,  situated  between  the  road  and 
river,  quite  near  the  former,  which  is  elevated  some  15 
or  20  feet  above  the  spring.  Stepping  to  the  edge  of  the 
bank,  an  excellent  view  of  the  crater  is  obtained,  the 
crystal  clearness  of  its  waters  allowing  a distinct  view  into 
its  apparently  bottomless  depths.  The  spring  is  60  feet 
in  diameter  and  generally  very  little  agitated,  merely 
overflowing.  The  surrounding  formation,  quite  unlike 


78 


YELLOWSTONE  NATIONAL  PARK. 


that  of  any  other  spring,  is  as  hard  as  flint,  and  of  a 
peculiar  olive-green  color.  Although  for  the  most  part 
very  quiescent,  this  spring  has  occasional  pulsations  in 
the  nature  of  eruptions,  at  which  times  large  quantities 
of  water  are  forced  out,  fairly  flooding  the  formation  be- 
tween it  and  the  river.  These  eruptions  are,  however, 
extremely  irregular,  too  few  of  them  having  been  wit- 
nessed, in  fact,  to  render  the  regularity  of  its  periods  of 
activity  a matter  of  record  or  even  of  authentic  rumor. 
The  bank  of  the  Firehole,  some  30  feet  high  at  this 
point,  is  the  most  highly  colored  section  of  the  river  to 
be  found  in  the  Upper  Basin.  The  best  view  is  obtained 
from  the  bridle  path  on  the  west  side  of  the  river.  This 
path  leads  south  from  the  Splendid,  crossing  the  Fire- 
hole  just  above  its  confluence  with  Iron  Spring  Creek, 
near  which  it  joins  the  main  road. 

Biscuit  Basin. — This  portion  of  the  Upper  Basin  is 
on  the  west  side  of  Firehole  River,  and  on  the  north  side 
of  Iron  Spring  Creek,  being  about  one  mile  below 
Riverside  Bridge.  The  somewhat  difficult  ford  across 
Firehole  River  prevents  many  from  visiting  this  very  in- 
teresting locality  at  the  present  time;  however,  it  is 
hoped  that  the  construction  of  a substantial  wagon  road 
will  soon  overcome  this  difficulty.  The  principal  attrac- 
tion of  Biscuit  Basin  is  Sapphire  Pool,  whose  highly 
ornamented  margin  suggested  the  basin’s  rather  odd 
name.  Hundreds  of  small,  symmetrical,  biscuit-like 
knobs  of  olive  green  formation  surround  the  spring, 
which  is  of  the  variety  known  as  pulsating  or  breathing 
springs  (geysers  in  fact),  the  constant  ebb  and  flow  of 
its  waters  now  rising  threateningly  and  flooding  the  mar- 
gin of  hard,  biscuit-shaped  masses,  from  one  to  another 


SAPPHIRE  POOL,  BISCUIT  BASIN. 


79 


8o 


YELLOWSTONE  NATIONAL  PARE. 


of  which  one  must  pick  his  way  in  order  to  get  a good 
view  of  the  pool  itself;  now  gently  and  noiselessly  reced- 
ing, presenting,  the  while,  a spectacle  as  curious  as  it 
certainly  is  interesting.  A few  feet  to  the  west  is 

Soda  Geyser,  whose  eruptions,  occurring  with  the 
remarkable  frequency  of  from  three  to  five  minutes,  ren- 
der this  little  geyser  extremely  interesting,  particularly  as 
it  manifests  considerable  power,  throwing  its  jets  of  water 
and  steam  to  a height  of  25  or  30  feet. 

Scarce  500  feet  further  west  are  the  Black  Pearl  and 
Silver  Globe.  The  former  has  a beautiful  basin,  studded 
thickly  with  what  at  first  appear  to  be  black  pearls,  each 
about  one  quarter  of  an  inch  in  diameter.  A curious 
feature  of  this  little  “spouter”  is  the  fact  that  its  forma- 
tion surrounds  the  roots  and  stump  of  a tree,  completely 
encrusting  the  same  with  its  rich,  black  ornamentation. 

The  Silver  Globe  derives  its  name  from  the  constant 
rising  to  its  surface  of  large,  silvery  globules  or  bubbles  of 
gas  or  steam,  which,  of  course,  immediately  disappear  on 
reaching  the  air.  These  and  many  other  equally  inter- 
esting points  of  interest  will  tend  to  make  this  locality  de- 
servedly popular  when  more  generally  accessible. 


TOUR  OF  THE  PARR. 


8l 


GEYSER  TIME  TABLE. 

A RECORD  OF  THE  ERUPTIONS  OF  THE  ACTIVE  GEYSERS  IN  THE 
UPPER  GEYSER  BASIN,  YELLOWSTONE  NATIONAL  PARK. 


NAME. 

HEIGHT 

FT. 

INTERVALS  OF 
ERUPTION. 

DURATION. 

Old  Faithful, 

150 

65  minutes. 

4 min. 

Bee  Hive, 

200 

10  to  30  hours. 

8 “ 

Giantess 

150 

14  days. 

12  hrs. 

Lion,  

60 

24  hours.  • 

8 min. 

Lioness, 

80  • 

Irregular. 

10  “ 

Cub 

12 

Frequent. 

20  “ 

Surprise 

IOO 

Irregular. 

2 “ 

Spasmodic 

40 

Irregular. 

20  “ 

Sawmill, 

35 

Very  frequent. 

30  “ 

Grand 

200 

1 15  to  20  hours. 

30  “ 

Turban, 

40 

Following  the  Grand. 

20  “ 

Riverside, 

100 

8 hours. 

15  “ 

Mortar 

60 

8 hours. 

6 “ 

Fan, 

70 

8 hours. 

10  “ 

Artemisia 

150 

Irregular. 

10  “ 

Atomizer, 

20 

Irregular. 

10  “ 

Soda 

50 

5 minutes. 

1 “ 

Grotto, 

30 

4 hours. 

30  “ 

Giant 

250 

6 days. 

90  “ 

Oblong, 

30 

8 hours. 

4 “ 

Splendid, 

200 

3 hours  every  other  day. 

10  “ 

Comet 

60 

Irregular. 

5 “ 

Castle, 

150 

24  to  30  hours. 

25  “ 

Mud 

30 

Irregular. 

5 “ 

Cliff, 

IOO 

Irregular. 

8 “ 

Lone  Star 

75 

40  minutes. 

10  “ 

Chinaman, 

40 

Irregular. 

2 “ 

6 


82 


YELLOWSTONE  NATIONAL  PARK. 


HAYDEN  VALLEY  ROAD,  FROM  LOWER  BASIN 
TO  FALLS. 

From  the  Lower  Basin  there  is  a wagon  road  lead- 
ing to  the  falls  and  canyon,  over  Mary’s  Mountain  (so 
called)  and  through  Hayden  Valley,  a description  of  the 
route  being  given  below,  though  since  the  opening  of  the 
new  road  from  the  Upper  Basin  to  Yellowstone  Lake,  by 
way  of  Shoshone  Basin  and  Lake,  the  Mary’s  Mountain 
road  has  not  been  traveled  so  much  as  formerly. 

The  road  through  Hayden  Valley  is  due  east  from 
the  Lower  Basin  Hotel,  following  the  valley  of  the  east 
fork  of  Firehole  River  about  five  miles,  when  it  ascends 
the  “mountain  divide,’’  which  separates  the  headwaters 
of  the  Missouri  and  Yellowstone  Rivers.  This  is  not  the 
regularly  constructed  Government  road,  having  been  first 
opened  by  General  Howard  in  1877  while  in  pursuit  of 
the  hostile  Nez  Perces  Indians,  who  passed  through  the 
Park  at  that  time.  The  only  really  difficult  portion  of 
this  road  is  that  on  the  west  side  of  the  mountain,  where 
it  becomes  necessary  for  passengers  to  lighten  their  con- 
veyances by  walking.  On  the  summit  of  the  mountain 
is  Mary’s  Lake,  the  highest  body  of  water  in  the  “Re- 
serve,” nearly  round  in  shape,  and  about  one-fourth  of  a 
mile  across.  The  waters  of  this  elevated  lake  are  un- 
doubtedly supplied  by  the  melting  of  the  great  fall  of 
snow  upon  this  “range,”  aided  by  mountain  springs. 
It  is  surrounded  by  a dense  growth  of  pines,  its  well- 
defined  shores  being  of  washed-lava  formation,  and  its 
outlet,  at  the  southeast,  — the  head  of  the  east  fork  of 
Firehole  River. 


HAYDEN  VALLEY,  BETWEEN  LAKE  AND  FALLS. 


83 


YELLOWSTONE  NATIONAL  PARR. 


$4 


Passing  along  the  crest  of  this  mountain  range  for  a 
couple  of  miles,  one  notes,  along  the  way,  numerous  in- 
dications of  hot  water  and  sulphur  springs;  Alum  Creek 
is  crossed  (whose  disagreeable  waters  no  animal  will 
drink),  its  source  being  readily  traceable  to  several  small 
lakes  and  springs  of  milky  colored  water  on  the  very 
summit  of  the  “divide.” 

The  descent  of  the  mountain  on  the  eastern  side  is 
more  gentle,  requiring  four  miles  of  travel  in  order  to 
reach  Hayden  Valley.  On  the  way,  the  commanding 
view  afforded  of  the  grand  valley  of  the  Yellowstone 
and  its  mountain  environments  is  exceptionally  fine.  To 
the  north  is  the  Washburn  range,  and  stretching  away 
in  the  distance,  to  the  eastward,  the  Yellowstone  range, 
whose  towering  Pilot  Knob  and  Saddle  Mountain,  full 
50  miles  distant,  are  plainly  visible. 

The  Trout  Creek  Dinner  Station  is  a canvas  hotel 
situated  on  the  east  side  of  the  mountain  where  the  road 
enters  Hayden  Valley.  It  is  one  of  the  temporary  sta- 
tions constructed  for  the  benefit  of  travelers,  and  an  ex- 
cellent camping  place. 

Hayden  Valley  was  named  in  honor  of  Dr.  F.  V. 
Hayden  of  the  United  States  Geological  Survey.  It  ex- 
tends nearly  to  the  Grand  Canyon  on  the  north  and 
along  the  Yellowstone  southward  to  Mud  Geysers,  aver- 
aging about  12  miles  in  width.  This  portion  of  the 
Park  is  the  winter  habitat  of  its  few  remaining  buffalo, 
some  200  of  which  wintered  here  during  1889-90.  To 
many  this  part  of  the  Park  is  very  interesting.  The 
road  winds  nearly  across  the  valley  to  the  Yellowstone 
River,  forming  a junction  with  the  well -constructed 
wagon  road  between  the  falls  and  Yellowstone  Lake. 


TOUR  OF  THE  PARK. 


85 


UPPER  GEYSER  BASIN  TO  YELLOWSTONE  LAKE. 

VIA  SHOSHONE  LAKE  AND  GEYSER  BASIN. 

The  construction  of  the  stage  road  from  the  Upper 
Basin  to  Yellowstone  Lake,  by  way  of  Shoshone  Lake 
and  Geysers,  has  added  much  to  the  attractiveness  of  the 
Park  tour,  rendering  easily  accessible  to  visitors  a new 
and  extensive  region,  charming  in  scenery  and  but  little 
behind  the  great  geyser  basins  in  point  of  marvelous 
phenomena. 

Leading  up  the  Madison  River  (being  the  same 
stream  known  as  Firehole  River  during  its  meandering 
of  the  geyser  basins)  the  road  crosses  the  river,  and 
climbs  a gentle  ascent  to 

Kepler’s  Cascades  (two  miles  from  the  Upper  Basin 
Hotel),  whose  waters  leap  from  shelf  to  shelf  of  a rocky 
chasm  in  a series  of  enchanting  falls,  aggregating  100  to 
150  feet  in  height,  whose  charms  are  enhanced  by  the 
dark  background  of  forest  on  either  hand.  From  this 
point  the  roadway  continues  up  the  Madison  to 

Lone  Star  Geyser,  three  miles  further  on.  The 
cone  of  this  geyser  is  about  10  feet  in  height  by  12  in 
diameter  at  its  base,  tapering  slightly  toward  its  summit, 
which  is  fully  six  feet  across;  its  crater  consisting  of  one 
large  central  opening  surrounded  by  numerous  small 
orifices  from  all  of  which  water  is  thrown  during  an 
eruption.  The  Lone  Star  plays  every  half  hour,  each  al- 
ternate display  being  the  better,  its  boiling  contents 
being  thrown  in  a fine  spray,  mingled  with  steam,  to  a 
height  of  60  feet.  The  chief  beauty  of  this  geyser  lies 
in  its  cone,  which  is  striped,  vertically,  with  bands  of 
white,  lavender  and  brown,  intermixed  with  varying 


TOUR  OF  THE  PARK. 


87 


shades  of  yellow,  and  is  completely  covered  with  an 
almost  endless  variety  of  elegant  pearl-like  beads.  In 
the  immediate  vicinity  are  quite  a number  of  small  but 
highly  colored  and  interesting  springs. 

Soon  after  passing  Lone  Star,  the  road  deflects  to  the 
eastward  and  climbs  the  Continental  Watershed,  sur- 
mounting which,  it  descends  to  the  headwaters  of  Sho- 
shone Creek,  and  follows  its  course  to  the  Geyser  Basin 
at  the  western  extremity  of  Shoshone  Lake,  distant 
from  the  Upper  Basin  (by  road)  about  12  miles.  Sepa- 
rated from  the  lake-shore  by  low,  timbered  hills  of  highly 
colored  clay  formation  and  of  crater-like  appearance,  is 
the  geyser  basin  proper,  comprising  an  area  of  about  a 
square  mile.  This  basin,  situated  upon  an  irregular 
plateau  of  geyser  formation,  contains  many  curious  and 
beautiful  springs  (356  in  all)  and  several  geysers,  chief 
among  the  latter  being 

Union  Geyser,  which  has  three  cones,  the  central 
being  the  largest  and  principal  crater;  this  cone  is  three 
feet  high,  and  about  18  feet  in  circumference  at  its  base, 
formed  of  beautifully  beaded  geyserite,  in  color  varying 
from  yellow  to  drab,  with  pearl- tinted  intermingling,  at 
the  top  of  which  is  a triangular  orifice,  whose  sides  are 
about  two  feet  in  length,  the  interior  of  the  crater  being 
lined  with  irregularly  rounded  masses  of  brownish-yellow 
geyserite. 

The  north  cone,  next  in  size,  is  about  half  the  height 
of  its  neighbor,  and  has  an  orifice  measuring  about  1 foot 
by  2^/2  feet,  of  similar  formation,  but  darker  colored. 

The  south  cone  is  the  smallest  of  the  three,  being 
only  about  a foot  above  the  general  level  of  the  mound 
or  platform  of  the  geyser.  It  has,  however,  two  small 


SHOSHONE  LAKE. 


TOUR  OF  THE  PARK. 


89 


openings  at  the  top,  from  both  of  which  water  and  steam 
play  during  eruptive  periods.  The  eruptions  of  the 
Union,  while  somewhat  irregular,  occur  usually  at  inter- 
vals of  three  hours,  and  continue  twenty  to  forty  minutes. 
Eruptions  begin  with  a few  preliminary  puffs  of  steam, 
columns  of  water  following  almost  immediately;  those 
from  the  central  cone  rising  to  a height  of  100  to  125 
feet;  those  from  the  north  cone  about  half  as  high,  while 
the  jets  from  the  small  orifices  of  the  south  cone  attain  the 
height  of  only  a few  feet.  An  interesting  steam  period, 
accompanied  by  a hoarse,  roaring  sound,  follows  the 
ejection  of  the  water  from  the  central  cone,  but,  curiously 
enough,  water  columns  continue  to  play  from  the  north 
cone  during  the  greater  part  of  this  steam  period. 
The  Gourd,  Shield,  Minute  Man,  Lion,  Little  Bulger, 
Bead,  Bronze  and  Little  Giant  are  among  other  note- 
worthy geysers  of  this  basin,  while  among  the  de- 
lightful springs  are  the  Brown  Sponge,  Velvet,  Marble 
Cliff,  Kitchen,  Coral,  and  numerous  others,  named  and 
unnamed. 

Here  is  located  another  of  the  hotels  of  the  Park, 
and  boating  may  be  enjoyed  by  those  who  desire. 

Shoshone  is  a typical  mountain  lake,  surrounded  by 
high  wooded  hills,  with  here  and  there  little  coves  and 
strips  of  sandy  beach,  though  in  places  the  shores  are 
marshy.  Seen  from  the  higher  ground,  it  has  the  appear- 
ance of  two  lakes,  each  of  fair  size,  connected  by  a strait 
about  half  a mile  in  width.  Its  extreme  length  does  not 
exceed  six  miles,  and  its  widest  part  four  miles.  It  is,  like 
its  larger  sister  (Yellowstone  Lake),  a great  resort  for 
migratory  waterfowl,  large  flocks  of  which  may  be  seen 
at  almost  any  time  during  September  or  October,  skim- 


90 


YELLOWSTONE  NATIONAL  PARK. 


ming  the  rippling  surface  of  the  lake,  or  diving  beneath 
its  blue  waves  in  pursuit  of  food. 

The  road  from  Shoshone  Geyser  Basin  to  the  Hot 
Spring  Basin,  located  at  the  western  extremity  of  Thumb 
Bay  (Yellowstone  Lake),  distant  in  a northeasterly  direc- 
tion about  1 8 miles,  as  the  road  runs,  skirts  along  the 
south  shore  of  Shoshone  Lake  throughout  its  entire 
length,  crossing  (a  little  more  than  half  way  around) 

Moose  Creek,  and  at  the  extreme  eastern  point  of  the 
lake,  Lewis  River,  which  forms  its  outlet,  emptying  into 
Lewis  Lake,  a few  miles  to  the  southeast.  While  some- 
what broad,  this  stream  is  generally  shallow,  and,  having 
a hard  bottom,  is  readily  fordable  at  most  points.  Along 
its  east  bank  may  still  be  seen  the  well-defined  trail  made 
by  the  presidential  party  in  1882,  which  is  apparently 
almost  as  fresh  as  when  the  Government  mules  left  their 
hoof-prints  in  the  soft,  yielding  soil. 

Immediately  after  crossing  Lewis  River,  the  road  be- 
gins climbing  the  Continental  Divide,  which  bends  like  a 
bow  around  Shoshone  Lake  to  the  north,  east  and  west, 

. . Z 

but  so  gradual  is  the  ascent,  that  the  summit  is  passed 
before  one  is  aware  of  it,  and  glimpses  of  the  great  lake 
to  the  eastward  are  caught  through  the  pine  forest  which 
stretches  away  on  every  hand  beyond  the  limit  of  vision. 


YELLOWSTONE  LAKE.  HOT  SPRING  CONE 


9l 


92 


YELLOWSTONE  NATIONAL  PARK. 


YELLOWSTONE  LAKE  AND  VICINITY. 

It  is  1 8 miles  from  Shoshone  Geyser  Basin  to  the 
hotel  at  the  Hot  Spring  Basin,  which  stretches  for  nearly 
three  miles  along  the  extreme  western  margin  of  Thumb 
Bay.  There  are  no  less  than  seven  hot  spring  basins 
surrounding  Yellowstone  Lake,  containing  in  the  aggre- 
gate more  than  100  springs,  great  and  small,  of  hot 
silicious  water,  but  those  of  the  west  arm,  or  Thumb 
Bay,  as  it  is  called,  are  by  far  the  most  interesting. 
There  are  66  springs  and  paint  pots  in  this  group 
(the  temperature  of  whose  waters  average  about  190 
degrees  Fahrenheit)  and  several  geyser  cones;  one  of 
which  rises  above  the  lake  surface  just  a few  feet  from  the 
shore,  standing  upon  which  one  may  catch  trout,  and, 
dropping  them  into  the  hot  water  in  the  crater  of  the 
cone,  cook  them  without  removal  from  the  hook.  Some 
of  these  springs  have  a considerable  overflow,  caused  by 
what  seems  to  be  a forcing  up  of  their  contents,  which 
rise  and  fall  alternately  like  the  bosom  of  a sleeping 
giant;  these  are  called  breathing,  or  pulsating,  springs, 
in  contradistinction  to  those  whose  waters  maintain  the 
same  quiet  level. 

The  water  of  nearly  all  these  springs  possesses  the 
same  delicate  blue  tints  noticeable  in  other  portions  of 
the  Park.  The  lake-shore  at  this  point  consists  of  slop- 
ing terrace-like  layers  of  silicious  deposit,  which  extends 
some  distance  back  from  the  water’s  edge,  and  even  out 
into  the  lake.  Most  of  the  springs  are  scattered  over 
this  formation,  back  a little  way  from  the  lake,  though 
several  are  close  to  the  water’s  edge,  and  a few,  even, 
may  be  seen  beneath  the  lake  surface,  occasional  points 
of  bubbling  betraying  their  presence. 


TOUR  OF  THE  PARK. 


93 


Some  400  or  500  feet  back  from  the  lake,  and  nearly 
opposite  the  “fishing-cone,”  is  a paint  pot  basin,  similar 
to  that  near  Fountain  Geyser,  in  the  Lower  Basin. 

This  basin  is  about  50  feet  in  diameter,  and  is  a seeth- 
ing mass  of  beautifully  colored  and  finely  granulated 
clay,  the  prevailing  tints  being  pink  and  red  in  varying 
shades,  though  creamy  white  and  pale  blue  colors  are 
noticed.  Around  the  edges  of  the  basin  are  a dozen 
or  more  hollow  mud  cones,  2 to  3 feet  in  height, 
from  which  discharges  of  mud  occasionally  occur.  By 
many  this  basin  is  considered  the  most  attractive  of  all 
the  paint  pots  of  the  Park. 

At  this  point  tourists  will  find  facilities  for  bathing, 
boating  and  fishing,  and  will  have  a choice  of  two 
routes  to  the  large  hotel  at  the  outlet  of  the  lake  (16 
miles  distant  by  road  from  the  Thumb  Hotel),  viz., 
a 20  mile  ride  down  the  lake  by  steamer,  or  by  regular 
stage. 

Hotel  at  the  Outlet. — This  spacious  and  elegantly 
appointed  hotel,  erected  in  1889,  tends  greatly  toward 
making  Yellowstone  Lake  the  resort,  par  excellence,  of 
the  Park.  Here  everything  is  so  arranged  that  guests 
can  spend  the  entire  season,  if  they  so  desire,  making 
short,  easy  trips  of  sight  seeing  or  exploration  to  all 
points  of  the  great  reserve.  The  falls  and  canyon  are  dis- 
tant but  18  miles,  a well-constructed  road  leading  thither; 
the  Great  Geyser  basins  are  scattered  along  a stage 
route,  whose  extreme  length  is  not  above  40  miles  from 
the  hotel  at  Thumb  Bay,  and  some  five  miles  south- 
westerly, just  off  the  main  road  leading  from  the  Outlet 
to  the  Thumb,  is  an  arch  of  stone  spanning  a creek, 
forming  a natural  bridge;  while  to  the  eastward  lies  the 


94 


Yellowstone  National  park. 


Hoodoo  Region,  or  Goblin  Land,  a weirdly  wild 
region,  as  yet  visited  by  only  a few  sportsmen  and  am- 
bitious explorers,  but  which  time  and  the  construction  of 
roads  will  render  accessible  to  all. 

At  present,  a better  field  for  exploration  would  be 
difficult  to  find,  even  though  it  lies  at  the  threshold, 
almost,  of  one  of  the  most  cosmopolitan  of  American 
watering-place  hotels. 

To  visit  any,  or  all,  of  the  points  of  interest  circum- 
jacent to  this  grand  mountain  lake,  vehicles  of  all  kinds, 
saddle  and  pack-animals,  guides,  rowboats,  sailboats 
and  steamers  are  ever  at  command,  and  as  for  trout  fish- 
ing, he  who  has  never  cast  a “fly”  into  the  blue  depths 
of  this  vast  natural  “trout  preserve”  knows  little  or 
nothing  of  its  delights. 

Fifteen  by  twenty  miles  in  size,  of  irregular  outline, 
somewhat  resembling  the  human  hand,  and  embracing 
an  area  of  about  150  square  miles,  this  is  the  largest 
body  of  water  in  North  America  at  so  great  an  altitude 
— 7,788  feet  above  sea  level. 

Several  islands  dot  its  surface,  the  largest  being 
Stephenson’s,  near  the  south  end,  and  Frank’s,  midway 
of  the  lake,  and  its  very  considerable  depth  (from  5 to 
50  fathoms)  renders  navigation  practicable  and  safe.  The 
river  Yellowstone  is,  at  once,  its  principal  affluent  and 
sole  outlet,  its  upper  portion  draining  a considerable  area 
tributary  to  the  lake  on  the  southeast,  and  the  vast  body 
of  water  thus  accumulated  in  this  natural  mountain  reser- 
voir serving  not  only  to  furnish  a never-failing  supply  for 
one  of  the  grandest  of  the  Missouri’s  tributaries,  but 
supplying  the  means  for  the  successful  irrigation  of  the 
entire  Lower  Yellowstone  Valley. 


TOUR  OP  TttE  PARR. 


95 


YELLOWSTONE  LAKE  TO  FALLS  AND  CANYON. 

Some  five  miles  from  the  hotel  at  the  outlet,  on  the 
road  to  the  falls  and  canyon,  are  situated,  on  either 
hand, 

Mud  Geysers,  large  craters  filled  with  blue,  pasty 
mud,  one  and  all  emitting  odors  far  from  agreeable, 
while  a few  rods  to  the  left,  at  the  base  of  a cliff,  is 

Mud  Caldron,  or  Mud  Volcano,  as  it  is  sometimes 
called,  whose  funnel-shaped  crater  is  30  feet  in  depth, 
formed  by  mud  ejected  from  below  through  a cave-like 
opening,  out  of  which  a sickening,  leaden-colored  mass 
of  mud,  of  the  consistency  of  soft  mortar,  is  constantly 
belched,  accompanied  by  dull,  muffled  sounds,  and  in  a 
manner  at  once  repulsive  and  fascinating.  The  strange 
phenomenon  presented  by  the  foliage  in  the  vicinity, 
covered  as  it  is  with  a coating  of  mud,  is  accounted  for 
by  the  theory  that  it  is  carried  there  in  minute  particles 
by  the  action  of  escaping  steam,  and  not  as  the  result  of 
eruptions,  as  some  suppose. 

The  road  follows  the  valley  of  the  Yellowstone  all 
the  way  to  the  falls,  passing  (near  Mud  Geysers)  the 
ford  crossed  by  the  fleeing  Nez  Perces,  following  their 
memorable  raid  eastward  into  the  Missouri  Valley  here- 
tofore mentioned;  traversing  Hayden  Valley  on  the  way, 
crossing  Alum  Creek,  and  passing  close  by 

Sulphur  Mountain,  or  Crater  Hills,  consisting  of 
a group  of  isolated  hills  or  “buttes,”  each  about  150  feet 
high,  of  which  a splendid  view  is  obtained  from  the  road- 
way as  it  skirts  along  their  western  base.  Large  blocks 
of  detached  rock  are  scattered  about,  in  all  of  which  a 
large  percentage  of  pure  sulphur  is  noticeable.  The  fumes 


g6 


YELLOWSTONE  NATIONAL  PARK. 


arising  from  the  various  vents  are  exceedingly  disagree- 
able. The  chief  attraction  is  a large  boiling  spring  at  the 
base  of  the  mountain,  on  the  west  side.  Of  this,  Capt. 
G.  C.  Doane,  U.  S.  A.,  has  given  the  following  graphic 
description:  “The  greatest  spring,  in  appearance,  lies 

at  the  base  of  the  highest  hill,  and  is  intensely  sulphurous, 
great  clouds  of  vapor  continually  escaping  from  it.  It 
measures  15  x 20  feet  on  the  inside,  and  its  waters  boil 
up  constantly  from  3 to  7 feet  in  height;  the  whole  sur- 
face rising  and  falling,  occasionally,  with  a flux  and  reflux 
of  four  feet  additional,  overflowing  its  basin,  and  receding 
every  few  minutes.  The  basin  is  built  up  with  a solid  rim, 
or  lining,  of  pure,  crystallized  sulphur,  four  feet  in  width 
all  around  the  edge,  probably  amounting  to  forty  tons  in 
weight.  The  water  is  clear,  but  of  a whitish  cast,  and 
above  the  boiling  point,  steam  being  evaporated  from  its 
surface.  A small  channel  leads  down  the  slope,  and  for 
several  hundred  feet  its  bed  is  encrusted  with  a sulphur 
deposit,  showing  that  the  spring  occasionally  flows  a con- 
siderable quantity  of  water,  the  deposit  being  from  3 to 
10  inches  deep.” 

On  the  west  side  of  the  road  are  numerous  mud  cal- 
drons and  springs,  the  contents  of  which  are  varied,  some 
being  of  thick  mud,  others  of  leaden-hued  water,  ail  in- 
cessantly agitated  and  throwing  upon  their  surrounding 
edges  a finely  mixed  muddy  deposit.  The  road  from 
Sulphur  Mountain  to  the  Canyon  Hotel  (some  four  miles 
distant)  passes  over  a rolling  country,  and  skirts  along 
the  banks  of  Yellowstone  River  until  nearly  to  the  Upper 
F'alls,  when  it  turns  from  the  river  toward  the  hotel. 


RAPIDS  ABOVE  UPPER  FALLS 


7 


97 


98 


YELLOWSTONE  NATIONAL  PARK. 


UPPER  FALLS  OF  THE  YELLOWSTONE. 

About  a quarter  of  a mile  above  the  falls,  the  current 
is  very  rapid,  tumbling  and  rushing  over  a succession  of 
cascades  and  around  masses  of  rock  left  surrounded  in 
mid- stream.  Just  before  reaching  the  brink  of  the  falls 
the  river  makes  an  abrupt  turn  to  the  eastward,  from 
which  fact  an  unobstructed  view  of  the  former  cannot  be 
obtained  from  its  hotel  side.  Above  the  falls  a jutting 
point  of  rocks  afford  an  excellent  view  of  the  rapids  and 
the  foaming  waters  rushing  on  over  the  precipice  itself. 
The  Upper  Falls  have  a perpendicular  drop  of  140  feet, 
and  the  water,  striking  the  shelving  rock  formation  at  the 
bottom  of  the  abyss,  shoots  out  rocket-like  columns 
plainly  seen  from  the  ledge  above.  A quarter  of  a mile 
below  the  river  takes  another  leap  of  360  feet,  called  the 
Lower  Falls.  The  water  between,  while  seemingly 
placid,  from  points  of  observation  most  readily  accessible 
and  therefore  usually  visited,  is  exceedingly  rapid, 
though  its  remarkable  clearness  affords  a view  of  its 
apparently  smooth,  rocky  bottom  the  entire  distance.  A 
footpath  leads  to  the  bottom  of  the  Upper  Falls,  where 
very  fine  trout  fishing  may  be  enjoyed,  and  midway  be- 
tween this  point  and  the  Lower  Falls,  Cascade  Creek 
enters  the  river. 

Cascade  Falls  are  directly  below  the  bridge  which 
spans  the  creek.  Their  aggregate  fall,  including  the 
cascades  above,  is  about  130  feet,  and  a ladder  to  Grotto 
Pool  allows  an  inspection  of  them,  though  these  minor 
attractions  possess  little,  if  any,  charm  to  the  sight- seer 
when  so  near  a sight  justly  rated  among  the  grandest 
among  earth’s  many  marvelously  grand  scenic  displays. 


TOUR  OF  THE  PARK. 


99 


GREAT  FALLS  AND  GRAND  CANYON  OF  THE 
YELLOWSTONE. 

A short  distance  beyond  Cascade  Creek  the  road 
passes  a point  from  which  the  first  glimpse  of  the  canyon 
is  obtained.  Inspiration  Point  may  be  seen  some  three 
miles  away.  The  eye  follows  the  river’s  course  to  the 
brink  of  the  Great  Falls,  where  it  suddenly  disappears, 
to  be  seen  again  some  distance  below,  meandering,  like  a 
slender  ribbon  of  silver,  between  frowning  canyon  walls. 
A sign-board  points  out  the  trail  to  the  brink  below, 
following  which,  on  foot,  the  visitor  soon  stands  upon  a 
natural  platform  of  rock  upon  the  very  edge  of  the  can- 
yon, overlooking  the  awful  plunge  of  seething  waters. 
At  this  point  the  river,  though  some  250  feet  in  width  a 
short  distance  above,  narrows  to  just  74  feet,  and  while 
the  view  is  grand  almost  beyond  expression,  it  is  not  the 
best  to  be  obtained  of  the  falls,  Point  Lookout  and  Red 
Rock  being  regarded  the  best  points  from  which  to 
see  them;  however,  probably  no  better  view,  certainly 
none  more  comprehensive,  of  the  canyon  is  obtainable 
than  that  to  be  had  from  the  platform  overlooking  the 
brink  of  the  falls.  Gazing  down  the  canyon,  Point  Look- 
out is  seen  rising  from  1,200  to  1,500  feet  above  the 
river.  Almost  directly  opposite,  on  the  right-hand  side 
of  the  canyon,  is  Artist’s  Point,  so  called  from  being 
the  position  selected  by  Mr.  Thomas  Moran  from  which 
to  paint  his  celebrated  picture,  which  may  be  seen  hang- 
ing in  the  nation’s  capitol  at  Washington. 

Inspiration  Point,  three  miles  below,  is  hidden 
from  view  by  an  intervening  bend,  but  a vast  stretch  of 
rugged  canyon  wall  may  be  seen  on  either  hand.  The 


POINT  LOOKOUT  AND  GRIiAT  FALLS. 


lOO 


TOUR  OF  THE  PARK. 


IOI 


only  possible  footing  to  be  found  in  the  canyon  below  the 
falls,  and  from  which  the  latter  may  be  clearly  seen,  is  on 
the  right,  immediately  at  the  foot  of  the  falls.  This 
point  has  been  reached  by  but  few,  and  then  only  by  the 
aid  of  800  feet  of  rope,  by  which  the  adventurous  ex- 
plorer is  assisted  in  descending  and  ascending  the  almost 
perpendicular  cliffs.  The  subject  of  the  frontispiece 
illustration  was  secured  from  this  position.  To  reach  the 
south  and  east  side  of  the  canyon  it  is  necessary  to  cross 
the  river  above  the  Upper  Falls,  which  may  be  readily 
and  safely  accomplished  by  boat,  and  ere  long  will  be 
made  possible  by  means  of  a foot-bridge  to  be  con- 
structed at  their  brink.  The  descent  of  the  Grand  Can- 
yon will  undoubtedly  be  made  possible,  at  no  very  distant 
day,  by  means  of  an  elevator. 

Leaving  the  brink  of  the  Lower  Falls,  the  trail  is 
ascended  back  up  the  canyon’s  side,  past  the  sign-board 
to  its  top,  from  which  point,  directly  above  the  verge  of 
the  Lower  Falls,  the  river  and  Upper  Falls  come  promi- 
nently into  view,  and  as  one  passes  along  the  dizzy  edge 
of  the  canyon  toward  Point  Lookout,  glimpses  are  caught 
through  the  timber  of  the  Great  Falls  a full  1,000  feet 
below.  Point  Lookout  is,  by  trail,  about  half  a mile 
below  the  falls,  and  commands  altogether  the  best  com- 
bined view  of  the  Great  Falls  and  Canyon,  though  Red 
Rock,  just  below,  and  to  which  a perfectly  safe  trail 
leads  down  the  ravine  under  Point  Lookout,  affords  the 
best  view  of  the  falls  themselves  possible  for  tourists  to 
obtain. 

Inspiration  Point  is  considered  by  many  to  be,  of 
all  points,  the  best  from  which  to  see  and  appreciate  the 
vast  immensity  of  the  canyon,  and  although  it  is  two 


102 


YELLOWSTONE  NATIONAL  PARK. 


miles  from  Point  Lookout,  the  grandeur  of  the  view, 
when  considered  together  with  the  various  other  points 
and  projections  from  which  a more  or  less  extended  in- 
spection of  the  canyon  may  be  made,  well  repays  one 
for  the  extra  effort  required  to  see  and  inspect  them. 
Inspiration  Point  is  1,500  feet  above  the  river,  and  would 
afford  an  excellent  distant  view  of  both  canyon  and  falls, 
were  it  not  for  Point  Lookout  intervening.  Looking 
down  the  stream  the  view  of  the  canyon  from  this  point 
is  especially  fine,  though  the  brilliant  coloring  of  its 
walls  is  not  so  noticeable  as  above  the  point.  Beside  the 
trail  a short  distance  from  this  locality  may  be  seen  a large 
boulder  of  granite,  a most  interesting  relic  of  glacial 
deposit,  said  by  geologists  to  have  been  stranded  here 
during  the  “ice  period.” 

The  opposite  side  of  the  canyon  possesses  many 
excellent  points  from  which  to  observe  both  canyon  and 
falls,  giving  the  reverse  effect  of  lights  and  shadows, 
which  in  itself  is  highly  interesting.  Particularly  is  this 
true  of  Artist’s  Point,  from  which  an  unobstructed  view 
of  both  canyon  and  falls  may  be  had,  and  when  rendered 
more  accessible,  will  be  fully  as  popular  as  the  points 
visited  to-day.  The  banks  of  the  river  throughout  the 
entire  length  of  the  canyon  (some  10  miles)  are  lined 
with  hot  springs,  and  the  great  quantity  of  hot  water 
poured  from  them  into  the  river  current  has  the  effect  of 
increasing  the  temperature  of  the  river  fully  20  degrees 
between  the  Lower  Falls  and  a short  distance  below  In- 
spiration Point.  Quite  a powerful  little  geyser  is  noticed 
on  the  south  bank,  playing  from  a knob-like  deposit 
some  50  feet  above  the  surface  of  the  river,  and  a short 
distance  up  stream  from  Inspiration  Point,  above  which 


TOUR  OF  THE  PARK. 


103 


the  canyon  walls  rise  in  a sheer,  perpendicular  height  of 
fully  1,000  feet.  Field  glasses  are  quite  necessary  to 
anything  like  a satisfactory  inspection  of  these  numerous 
attractions,  among  which  an  eagle’s  nest,  situated  upon 
an  inaccessible  crag,  fully  compensates  for  the  trouble  of 
bringing  a glass,  in  the  interesting  study  it  affords  the 
beholder.  With  respect  to  scenic  effect,  that  obtained 
in  the  morning  from  Inspiration  Point  and  that  in  the 
afternoon  from  the  brink  of  the  Great  Falls  are  con- 
sidered by  many  the  best.  However,  each  and  every 
hour  produce  an  effect  of  light  and  shade  possible  for  no 
artist  to  portray  in  faithful  detail. 


Believing  that  the  purposes  of  a guide  book  are  best 
subserved  by  confining  its  scope  to  plain  descriptive 
statement,  calculated  to  enable  the  reader  to  readily  find, 
and  recognize  when  found,  the  subjects  concerning  which 
it  treats,  all  attempts  at  “word  pictures’’  have  been 
rigidly  excluded  from  this  little  hand-book.  It  would 
fail,  however,  to  even  faintly  convey  to  the  mind  of  the 
intending  visitor,  for  whose  benefit,  of  course,  special 
reference  was  had  in  its  inception,  anything  like  an  intel- 
ligent idea  of  the  wonders  of  the  National  Park,  if  it 
neglected  to  acquaint  him  with  the  expressed  opinions 
of  some  among  the  many  distinguished  litterateurs , scien- 
tists, artists  and  others  who  have  carefully  inspected  this 
region. 

The  following  interestingly  graphic,  and,  withal,  faith- 
ful, pen  picture  of  the  Grand  Canyon  and  Great  Falls  of 
the  Yellowstone  River,  by  the  Rev.  Dr.  Way  land  Hoyt, 
is  subjoined  for  this  purpose: 


GRAND  CANYON  OF  THE  YELLOWSTONE. 


TOUR  OF  THE  PARK. 


105 


‘‘Well,  we  have  reached  Cascade  Creek  at  last;  and 
a beautiful  grove  of  trees,  beneath  whose  shade  a clear 
stream,  whose  waters  are  free  from  the  nauseous  taste  of 
alkali,  furnished  a delightful  place  to  camp.  Now  — dis- 
mounting and  seeing  that  your  horse  is  well  cared  for, 
while  the  men  are  unloading  the  pack-mules  and  pitch- 
ing the  tents  — walk  up  that  trail  winding  up  that  hillside; 
follow  it  for  a little  among  the  solemn  pines,  and  then 
pass  out  from  the  tree  shadows  and  take  your  stand  upon 
that  jutting  rock,  clinging  to  it  well  meanwhile  and  be- 
ing very  sure  of  your  footing,  for  your  head  will  surely 
grow  dizzy,  and  there  opens  before  you  one  of  the  most 
stupendous  scenes  of  nature,  the  Lower  Falls  and  the  aw- 
ful Canyon  of  the  Yellowstone. 

“And  now,  where  shall  I begin,  and  how  shall  I,  in 
anywise,  describe  this  tremendous  sight;  its  overpower- 
ing grandeur,  and,  at  the  same  time,  its  inexpressible 
beauty  ? 

“Look  yonder!  Those  are  the  Lower  Falls  of  the 
Yellowstone.  They  are  not  the  grandest  in  the  world,  but 
there  are  none  more  beautiful.  There  is  not  the  breadth 
and  dash  of  Niagara,  nor  is  there  the  enormous  depth  of 
leap  of  some  of  the  waterfalls  of  the  Yosemite.  But  here  is 
majesty  of  its  own  kind,  and  beauty  too.  On  either  side 
are  vast  pinnacles  of  sculptured  rock.  There,  where  the 
rock  opens  for  the  river,  its  waters  are  compressed  from 
a width  of  200  feet  between  the  Upper  and  Lower  Falls, 
to  less  than  100  feet  where  it  takes  the  plunge.  The 
shelf  of  rock  over  which  it  leaps  is  absolutely  level.  The 
water  seems  to  wait  a moment  on  its  verge;  then  it  passes, 
with  a single  bound,  360  feet,  into  the  gorge  below.  It  is 
a sheer,  unbroken,  compact,  shining  mass  of  silver  foam. 


io6 


YELLOWSTONE  NATIONAL  PARK. 


But  your  eyes  are  all  the  while  distracted  from  the  fall 
itself,  great  and  beautiful  as  it  is,  to  its  marvelous  setting; 
to  the  surprising,  overmastering  canyon  into  which  the 
river  leaps,  and  through  which  it  flows,  dwindling  to  but 
a foamy  ribbon  there  in  its  appalling  depths.  As  you 
cling  here  to  this  jutting  rock  the  falls  are  already  many 
hundred  feet  below  you.  The  falls  unroll  their  whiteness 
down  amid  the  canyon  glooms.  * * * * * 

These  rocky  sides  are  almost  perpendicular;  indeed,  in 
many  places  the  boiling  springs  have  gouged  them  out 
so  as  to  leave  overhanging  cliffs  and  tables  at  the  top. 
Take  a stone  and  throw  it  over;  you  have  to  wait  long 
before  you  hear  it  strike.  Nothing  more  awful  have  I 
ever  seen  than  the  yawning  of  that  chasm.  And  the 
stillness,  solemn  as  midnight,  profound  as  death.  The 
water  dashing  there,  as  in  a kind  of  agony,  against  those 
rocks,  you  cannot  hear.  The  mighty  distance  lays  the 
finger  of  silence  on  its  white  lips.  You  are  oppressed 
with  a sense  of  danger.  It  is  as  though  the  vastness 
would  soon  force  you  from  the  rock  to  which  you  cling. 
The  silence,  the  sheer  depth,  the  gloom,  burden  you. 
It  is  a relief  to  feel  the  firm  earth  beneath  your  feet  again, 
as  you  carefully  crawl  back  from  your  perching  place. 

“ But  this  is  not  all,  nor  is  the  half  yet  told.  As  soon 
as  you  can  stand  it,  go  out  on  that  jutting  rock  again  and 
mark  the  sculpturing  of  God  upon  those  vast  and  solemn 
walls.  By  dash  of  wind  and  wave,  by  forces  of  the  frost, 
by  file  of  snow  plunge  and  glacier  and  mountain  torrent, 
by  the  hot  breath  of  boiling  springs,  those  walls  have 
been  cut  into  the  most  various  and  surprising  shapes.  I 
have  seen  the  ‘middle  age’  castles  along  the  Rhine; 
there  those  castles  are  reproduced  exactly.  I have  seen 


TOUR  OF  THE  PARK. 


107 


the  soaring  summit  of  the  great  cathedral  spires  in  the 
country  beyond  the  sea ; there  they  stand  in  prototype, 
only  loftier  and  sublimer. 

“And  then,  of  course,  and  almost  beyond  all  else, 
you  are  fascinated  by  the  magnificence  and  utter  opu- 
lence of  color.  Those  are  not  simple  gray  and  hoary 
depths,  and  reaches  and  domes  and  pinnacles  of  sullen 
rock.  The  whole  gorge  flames.  It  is  as  though  rain- 
bows had  fallen  out  of  the  sky  and  hung  themselves 
there  like  glorious  banners.  The  underlying  color  is  the 
clearest  yellow;  this  flushes  onward  into  orange.  Down 
at  the  base  the  deepest  mosses  unroll  their  draperies  of 
the  most  vivid  green;  browns,  sweet  and  soft,  do  their 
blending;  white  rocks  stand  spectral;  turrets  of  rock 
shoot  up  as  crimson,  as  though  they  were  drenched 
through  with  blood.  It  is  a wilderness  of  color.  It  is 
impossible  that  even  the  pencil  of  an  artist  can  tell  it. 
What  you  would  call,  accustomed  to  the  softer  tints  of 
nature,  a great  exaggeration,  would  be  the  utmost  tame- 
ness compared  with  the  reality.  It  is  as  if  the  most 
glorious  sunset  you  ever  saw  had  been  caught  and  held 
upon  that  resplendent,  awful  gorge. 

“ Through  nearly  all  the  hours  of  that  afternoon  until 
the  sunset  shadows  came,  and  afterward,  amid  the  moon- 
beams, I waited  there,  clinging  to  that  rock,  jutting  out 
into  that  overpowering,  gorgeous  chasm.  I was  appalled 
and  fascinated,  afraid,  and  yet  compelled  to  cling  there. 
It  was  an  epoch  in  my  life.” 


io8 


YELLOWSTONE  NATIONAL  PARK. 


MOUNT  WASHBURN. 

This,  the  observatory  of  the  Park,  lies  between  the 
Grand  Canyon  Hotel  and  Tower  Falls,  with  which  it  is 
at  present  connected  by  two  bridle-paths,  and,  soon  will 
be,  by  a substantial  wagon  road.  It  is  about  io  miles 
from  the  Grand  Canyon  Hotel  to  the  summit  of  the 
mountain,  which  may  be  readily  reached  from  either 
trail;  that  between  the  mountain  and  river  is  the  one 
most  traveled.  It  passes  along  the  edge  of  the  canyon, 
from  Inspiration  Point,  for  a mile  or  more,  gradually 
drawing  away  from  the  river  toward  the  mountainside, 
through  dense  forests  and  open  parks,  until  the  highest 
part  of  the  trail  is  reached,  fully  4,000  feet  above  the  river. 
If  it  is  desired  to  ascend  to  the  summit  of  the  mountain, 
the  trail  is  left  at  this  point,  horses  being  able  to  climb 
the  mountain  brow  without  special  fatigue.  If  the  climb 
to  the  summit  be  deemed  undesirable,  the  trail  is  con- 
tinued to  Tower  Falls,  the  descent  being  gradual  to  the 
valley  of  Antelope  Creek,  which  is  followed  nearly  to  the 
falls,  Mt.  Washburn  being  about  half  way  between  Grand 
Canyon  and  Tower  Falls. 

As  has  been  said,  Mt.  Washburn  is  the  observatory 
of  the  Park,  and  while  a trip  to  and  from  its  summit  con- 
sumes a day,  the  grand  view  obtained  amply  repays  the 
effort.  Dr.  Hoyt  thus  describes  it: 

“Let  us  take  our  stand  for  a little  now  upon  Mt. 
Washburn.  Its  rounded  crest  is  more  than  10,000  feet 
above  the  level  of  the  sea;  and  perhaps  5,000  feet  above 
the  level  of  the  valley,  out  of  which  it  springs.  Its 
smooth  slopes  are  easy  of  ascent.  You  need  not  dis- 
mount from  your  horse  to  gain  its  summit.  Standing 


MOUNT  WASH  BURN. 


IO9 


there  you  look  down  upon  the  whole  grand  pano- 
rama as  does  the  eagle  yonder,  holding  himself  aloft 
upon  almost  motionless  wings.  I doubt  if  there  is 
another  view  at  once  so  majestic  and  so  beautiful  in  the 
whole  world.  Your  vision  darts  through  the  spaces  for 
150  miles  on  some  sides.  You  are  standing  upon  a 
mountain  lifting  itself  out  of  a vast  saucer-shaped  depres- 
sion. Away  yonder,  where  the  sky  seems  to  meet  the 
earth  on  every  side  around  the  whole  circumference  of 
your  sight,  are  lines  and  ranges  of  snow-capped  peaks 
shutting  your  glances  in.  Yonder  shoots  upward  the 
serrated  peak  of  Pilot  Mountain,  in  the  Clark’s  Fork 
range.  Joined  to  that,  sweep  on  around  you  in  the  dim 
distance,  the  snowy  lines  of  the  Madison  range.  Yon- 
der join  hands  with  these,  the  Stinking  Water  Mountains, 
and  so  on  and  on  and  around. 

“ Take  now  a closer  view  for  a moment.  Mark  the 
lower  hills,  folded  in  their  thick  draperies  of  pine  and 
spruce,  like  dark  green  velvet  of  the  softest  and  deepest; 
notice,  too,  those  beautiful  park-like  spaces  where  the 
trees  refuse  to  grow,  and  where  the  prairie  spreads  its 
smooth  sward  freely  toward  the  sunlight.  And  those 
spots  of  steam  breaking  into  the  vision  every  now  and 
then,  and  floating  off  like  the  whitest  clouds  that  ever 
graced  the  summer  sky,  those  are  the  signals  of  the  gey- 
sers at  their  strange  duty,  yonder  in  the  geyser  basins, 
30  miles  away.  And  those  bits  of  silver,  flashing  hither 
and  thither  on  the  hillsides,  amid  the  dense  green  of  the 
forests,  these  are  waterfalls  and  fragments  of  ice  glaciers, 
which  for  ages  have  been  at  their  duty  of  sculpturing 
these  mountains,  and  have  not  yet  completed  it.  And 
that  lovely  deep  blue  sheet  of  water,  of  such  a dainty 


IIO 


YELLOWSTONE  NATIONAL  PARK. 


shape,  running  its  arms  out  toward  the  hills,  and  bearing 
on  its  serene  bosom  emeralds  of  islands;  that  is  the 
sweetest  sheet  of  water  in  the  world;  that  is  the  Yellow- 
stone Lake.  And  that  exquisite  broad  sheen  of  silver, 
winding  through  the  green  of  the  trees  and  the  brown  of 
the  prairie;  that  is  the  Yellowstone  River  starting  on  its 
wonderful  journey  to  the  Missouri,  and  thence  downward 
to  the  Gulf,  between  6,000  and  7,000  miles  away.  But, 
nearer  to  us,  almost  at  our  feet,  as  we  trace  this  broad 
line  of  silver,  the  eye  encounters  a frightful  chasm,  as  if 
the  earth  had  suddenly  sunk  away;  and  into  its  gloomy 
depths  the  brightness  and  beauty  of  the  shining  river 
leaps,  and  is  thenceforth  lost  altogether  to  the  view. 
That  is  the  tremendous  canyon,  or  gorge,  of  the  Yellow- 
stone.” 


From  the  falls  and  canyon,  stages  will  make  the  return  trip  to  Mammoth 
Hot  Springs  by  way  of  the  Virginia  Canyon  road  to  Norris,  as  stated  on  page  36, 
but  with  the  construction  of  a wagon  road  over  Mt.  Washburn,  to  the  north  of  the 
falls,  forming  a junction  with  the  Cooke  City  road,  near  Baronette’s  Bridge,  not 
only  will  a new  and  charming  portion  of  the  Park  be  opened  to  general  travel, 
but  the  entire  circuit  of  the  reservation  will  be  possible  without  retracing  any 
part  of  the  way. 


SNOWSHOE  PARTY  PASSING  OBSIDIAN  CLIFF. 


Ill 


f',p* 


I 12 


YELLOWSTONE  NATIONAL  PARK 


THE  PARK  IN  MIDWINTER. 

The  only  attempt  to  explore  this  region  in  the  winter 
occurred  in  January,  1887,  it  being  the  coldest  month 
experienced  by  residents  of  the  surrounding  territory  for 
over  twenty  years.  Seventy-five  per  cent  of  the  cattle  per- 
ished on  the  ranges  of  Montana  and  Wyoming,  adjacent 
to  the  Park,  whose  altitude,  being  several  thousand  feet 
higher,  rendered  the  region  proportionately  colder. 

The  expedition  was  headed  by  Lieutenant  Frederick 
Schwatka,  of  arctic  fame,  accompanied  by  several  eastern 
gentlemen  and  Mr.  F.  Jay  Haynes,  as  photographer, 
together  with  a corps  of  guides,  packers  and  assistants. 
The  party  was  outfitted  with  arctic  “sleeping  bags,”  the 
Norwegian  “ski”  and  the  Canadian  “web”  snowshoe, 
together  with  toboggans  to  carry  supplies,  photographic 
equipment  and  astronomical  instruments,  it  being  the  in- 
tention to  camp  wherever  night  overtook  the  party,  re- 
gardless of  the  hotels.  The  expedition  consumed  three 
days  in  reaching  Norris,  leaving  the  Mammoth  Hot 
Springs  January  2d,  camping  at  Indian  Creek  the  first 
night  with  the  thermometer  37  degrees  below  zero  when 
entering  the  sleeping  bags  for  the  night,  the  “clear  canopy 
of  heaven”  being  the  only  protection.  The  second 
camp  was  near  Obsidian  Cliff.  This  very  slow  rate  of 
traveling  was  owing  to  the  inexperience  of  the  explorers 
and  the  very  light  snow,  in  which  the  toboggans  sank 
readily,  making  them  difficult  to  draw.  After  reaching 
Norris,  Lieutenant  Schwatka’ s physical  condition  would 
not  permit  of  his  further  exploration,  he  becoming  satis- 
fied that  he  had  seen  enough  to  enable  him  to  prepare  a 
very  brilliant  description.  From  a photographic  stand- 


THE  PARK  IN  MIDWINTER. 


113 


point,  however,  the  remarkable  sights  in  the  Upper 
Basin  and  Grand  Canyon  could  not  be  secured  from 
Norris;  consequently,  Mr.  Haynes  secured  the  assistance 
of  two  of  the  best  men  of  the  Schwatka  party,  and, 
accompanied  by  Mr.  Ed.  Wilson,  the  Government  scout, 
attempted  and  fully  succeeded  in  securing  photographic 
negatives  of  the  most  interesting  portions  of  the  Park, 
visiting  the  Upper  Basin  and  crossing  over  Mt.  Wash- 
burn. The  fallacy  of  attempting  to  drag  toboggans  was 
proven  in  getting  to  Norris,  hence  this  party  resorted  to 
the  customary  fashion  of  packing  upon  their  backs  their 
equipment,  sleeping  bags  and  provisions;  each  carrying 
from  30  to  45  pounds.  The  Norwegian  shoe,  or  ski,  is 
a snowshoe  some  4 inches  wide  by  12  feet  long,  which 
.is  slid  over  the  snow,  the  operator  carrying  a pole  some 
eight  feet  long  to  assist  him  and  to  be  used  as  a brake 
when  descending  mountain  sides,  without  which  a velocity 
would  be  attained  that  would  be  extremely  dangerous. 
In  ascending,  a “tacking”  process  similar  to  that  of  a 
sailboat  proceeding  against  the  wind  has  to  be  resorted 
to,  unless  it  is  found  necessary  to  climb  an  abrupt  sec- 
tion, when  a small  rope,  always  carried  by  a snowshoer, 
is  wound  around  the  left  shoe  to  prevent  it  slipping  back. 
Parties  climbing  an  exceedingly  steep  place  usually 
make  of  their  shoes  a series  of  steps,  the  one  in  the  rear 
passing  the  last  shoe  ahead  for  the  one  in  advance  to 
take  a new  step.  This  mode,  of  course,  being  exceed- 
ingly slow,  was  only  once  or  twice  resorted  to.  In  leav- 
ing the  Norris  Hotel  the  first  grand  sight  presented  was 
in  Norris  Basin,  where  the  great  amount  of  steam  con- 
gealed on  the  trees  in  the  vicinity  produced  all  the  fan- 
tastic shapes  and  forms  possible  to  imagine,  while  the 
8 


114 


FOLIAGE  NEAR  GEYSERS  IN  WINTER. 


THE  PARK  IN  MIDWINTER 


115 


many  thousand  vents  sending  up  their  columns  of  steam 
resembled  a vast  manufacturing  city.  The  telephone 
wires  happening  to  be  over  a hot  spring  were  generally 
broken  down  by  the  immense  weight  of  accumulated  ice, 
frequently  assuming  a size  2 to  3 inches  in  diameter. 
The  Upper  Basin,  however,  presented  the  finest  attrac- 
tion, the  greater  amount  of  steam  and  more  numerous  hot 
springs  affording  a grand  sight.  The  president  of  the 
Yellowstone  Park  Association  kindly  offered  the  party 
the  use  of  the  hotels,  which  were  soon  found  to  be  colder 
than  out  doors.  They  are  summer  hotels,  and  the  draught 
produced  by  kindling  a fire  inside  was  more  disagreeable 
than  a camp  on  the  lava  formation  near  Old  Faithful, 
which  was  dry  and  entirely  free  from  snow  on  account  of 
the  internal  heat,  where,  securing  a tent  from  the  hotel, 
the  party  camped.  The  first  five  days  they  encountered 
the  most  blinding  of  snow  storms,  during  which  time,  of 
course,  no  photographs  could  be  made;  after  which  a 
clear  morning  revealed  a sight  seldom  seen,  in  which  Old 
Faithful,  the  Giantess  and  the  Grand  were  in  eruption  at 
one  and  the  same  time.  The  great  amount  of  steam  ris- 
ing in  majestic  columns  to  over  1,000  feet,  mingled  with 
that  constantly  arising  from  numerous  other  openings, 
produced  an  effect  truly  wonderful.  The  foliage  surround- 
ing each  geyser  was  most  artistically  ornamented  with  ice 
and  frozen  spray.  The  great  fall  of  snow  throughout  the 
Park,  fully  eight  feet  in  depth,  gave  a quite  different 
aspect  to  the  country.  The  Grand  Canyon  was  entirely 
changed,  the  beautiful  coloring  on  the  slopes  being  hid- 
den. The  Great  Falls  presented  a strange  sight;  the 
north  half  was  frozen  over,  immense  icicles,  200  feet  in 
length,  hanging  therefrom;  an  ice  bridge,  fully  100  feet 


GREAT  FALLS  OF  YELLOWSTONE  IN  WINTER 


THE  PARK  IN  MIDWINTER 


TI7 


high,  was  formed  at  the  base,  coming  up  fully  to  the  spray 
line,  which  is  usually  one-third  the  height  of  the  falls;  the 
brink  was  frozen  over,  being  hidden  by  an  arch  of  ice  fully 
a dozen  feet  thick.  The  trip  over  Mt.  Washburn,  in  which 
the  entire  party  nearly  lost  their  lives,  was  one  of  hard- 
ship and  privation,  a blinding  snow  storm  being  encoun- 
tered on  the  mountain,  lasting  for  three  days,  in  which  this 
little  party  wandered  day  and  night,  without  food,  shelter 
or  fire,  an  adventurous  experience  few  care  to  undergo. 
On  the  exposed  ridges  of  Mt.  Washburn  thousands  of  elk 
were  seen,  this  being  their  winter  range.  The  extreme 
rigors  of  this  section  prevent  it  ever  becoming  a winter 
resort,  and  probably  no  other  expedition  will  ever  be 
organized  to  explore  it. 

The  circuit  of  the  Park  on  snowshoes  covered  nearly 
200  miles,  the  temperature  varying  from  not  warmer  than 
10  degrees  below  zero  to  52  degrees  below,  during  the 
entire  twenty-nine  days  consumed  by  this  expedition. 


9 


n8 


YELLOWSTONE  NATIONAL  PARK. 


FAUNA  AND  FLORA  OF  THE  PARK. 

It  is  but  proper  that  the  reader  of  even  a guide-book 
be  given  some  idea  of  the  animal  and  plant  life  to  be  found 
in  this  region;  however,  it  should  be  borne  in  mind  that 
an  exhaustive  treatise  on  this  subject  is  not  attempted 
herein. 

Among  the  wild  animals  to  be  found  in  the  Park  are  : 
Buffalo,  moose,  elk,  big  horn  (mountain  sheep),  deer,  ante- 
lope, bear,  mountain  lion  (panther),  wolf,  fox  (red,  gray 
and  black),  coyote,  beaver,  otter,  mink,  marten,  sable, 
muskrat,  ermine,  rabbit,  badger,  porcupine,  hare,  squir- 
rel, chipmunk,  wolverine  and  skunk. 

Among  the  birds  (principally  migratory)  are  : Grouse, 
owl,  hawk,  eagle,  vulture,  duck  (in  great  variety),  goose, 
brant,  pelican,  swan,  crane,  crow,  raven,  bluejay  and 
blackbird. 

Reptiles  are  rare,  though  the  rattlesnake  is  found  in 
parts  of  the  Yellowstone  Valley,  below  an  altitude  of 
6,000  feet. 

Among  the  animals  enumerated,  the  larger  varieties 
are  only  occasionally  met  with,  and  then,  as  a general 
thing,  only  in  the  more  inaccessible  and  densely  wooded 
portions  of  the  Park,  the  latter  being  about  three-fourths 
its  entire  area. 

The  principal  varieties  of  trees  found  here  are  : Black 
spruce,  fir  (black,  red  and  balsam),  white  pine,  red  cedar, 
aspen  (poplar),  dwarf  maple,  and  willow;  while  among 
the  shrubs  may  be  seen  the  choke-cherry,  gooseberry, 
bullberry,  currant  and  buffalo-berry. 

Grasses  are  quite  abundant,  the  predominating  vari- 
eties being  the  buffalo,  bunch  and  gramma,  which  are 
wonderfully  nutritious. 


FISH  AND  FISHING. 


19 


Wild  flowers,  of  almost  every  hue,  and  in  wellnigh 
endless  variety,  are  quite  plentiful  and  exceedingly  hardy, 
often  withstanding  severe  frosts  without  injury.  Singu- 
larly, also,  the  more  beautiful  varieties  are  found  upon 
the  higher  elevations,  such  as  Mt.  Washburn,  Electric 
Peak  and  the  like,  which  at  certain  seasons  are  gayly  be- 
decked with  flowers  of  rare  color  and  fragrance;  however, 
many  interesting  specimens  of  flora  are  to  be  found  in  the 
lower  altitudes. 


FISH  AND  FISHING. 

To  many,  one  of  the  most  interesting  features  of  the 
Park  is  its  excellent  fishing;  mountain  trout  being  abun- 
dant and  widely  distributed  with  respect  to  its  various 
lakes  and  streams,  while  grayling  are  found  in  the  Madi- 
son and  Gallatin  Rivers,  and  whitefish  in  the  Madison, 
Gardiner  and  Yellowstone. 

During  the  summer  of  1889,  by  order  of  the  U.  S. 
Fish  Commission,  quite  a large  number  of  young  trout 
were  placed  in  Park  waters,  President  David  S.  Jordan 
of  the  University  of  Indiana,  assisted  by  Dr.  Charles  H. 
Gilbert,  having  direct  charge  of  the  work. 

An  extract  from  Dr.  Jordan’s  report  will  serve  to  show 
in  what  streams  and  lakes  fish  are  to  be  found  : 

“We  found  trout  in  Yellowstone  River  and  Lake,  and 
in  all  tributaries  both  above  and  below  the  falls,  except 
Tower  Creek.  Fishes  are  plenty  in  Snake  River  and 
Heart  Lake,  and  in  the  Madison  below  the  falls  of  Fire- 
hole.  There  are  none  in  the  Upper  Gardiner  above  the 
falls;  none  in  Firehole  nor  Lewis  Rivers;  nor  in  Lewis 
or  Shoshone  Lakes.  In  the  Gibbon,  above  the  falls,  are 


120 


YELLOWSTONE  NATIONAL  PARK. 


no  trout,  but  plenty  of  a little  fish  called  ‘ Blob,’  or  ‘ Mil- 
ler’s Thumb.’ 

“Grayling  are  found  only  in  the  Madison  and  Gal- 
latin; whitefish  in  the  Madison,  Lower  Gardiner  and 
Yellowstone. 

“The  U.  S.  Fish  Commission  has  placed  fish  as  fol- 
lows : 

“ Eastern  Brook  Trout  ( Salvelinus  fontinalis ) in  Up- 
per Gardiner  and  Glenn  Creeks. 

“Rainbow  Trout  ( Salmo  iridens ) in  the  Upper 
Gibbon,  above  Virginia  Cascades. 

“Loch  Leven  Trout  ( Salmo  trutta  levenensis ) in  the 
Madison,  above  Keppler’s  Cascades. 

“Whitefish  ( Coregonus  Williamsoni ) in  Yellowstone 
Lake  and  Twin  Lakes. 

“Native  Trout  ( Salmo  myhiss ) in  Lava  Creek.’’ 

A careful  investigation  is  being  made  as  to  the  cause 
or  causes  for  the  appearance  of  the  parasitic  worm  which 
afflicts  many  of  the  trout  in  Yellowstone  and  Heart  Lakes, 
and  it  is  hoped  and  expected  that  a remedy  may  be  found. 


TABLES  OF  DISTANCES,  ELEVATIONS,  ETC.  121 


TABLE  OF  DISTANCES. 

Miles. 

Cinnabar  to  Mammoth  Hot  Springs, 8 

Mammoth  Hot  Springs  to  Golden  Gate, 4 

Mammoth  Hot  Springs  to  Obsidian  Cliff, 12 

Mammoth  Hot  Springs  to  Norris  Geyser 22 

Mammoth  Hot  Springs  to  Lower  Geyser, 42 

Mammoth  Hot  Springs  to  Upper  Geyser, 52 

Lower  Geyser  to  Grand  Canyon, 28 

Grand  Canyon  to  Norris, 12 

Grand  Canyon  to  Yellowstone  Lake, 18 

Yellowstone  Lake  Outlet  to  Thumb  Bay 18 

Upper  Basin  to  Shoshone  Lake, 12 

Shoshone  Lake  to  Thumb  Bay 16 

Grand  Canyon  to  Yancey’s, 23 

Yancey’s  to  Mammoth  Hot  Springs, 18 

ELEVATIONS  OF  THE  PARK. 

Feet. 

Mammoth  Hot  Springs  Hotel 6,387 

West  Entrance  Golden  Gate 7,300 

Norris  Geyser  Basin, 7,5*7 

Lower  Geyser  Basin, 7.252 

Upper  Geyser  Basin, 7.394 

Yellowstone  Lake, 7.788 

Mary’s  Lake, 8.336 

Grand  Canyon  Hotel 7.710 

ALTITUDE  OF  MOUNTAINS. 

Feet. 

Electric  Peak, 11,155 

Quadrant  Mountain, 10,127 

Mt.  Evarts, 7,600 

Bunsen's  Peak 8,775 

Mt.  Washburn, 10,388 

Mt.  Langford, 10,902 

Mt.  Sheridan, 10,385 

Index  Peak 11,702 

Grand  Teton, , , , , 13,654 


122 


YELLOWSTONE  NATIONAL  PARK. 


METEOROLOGICAL  OBSERVATIONS. 


RECORDED  BY  THE  SUPT.  OF  THE  PARK  AT  THE  MAMMOTH  HOT  SPRINGS. 


TEMPERATURE  DURING  THE  MONTH  OK  AUGUST,  1887. 


Highest, 

Lowest, 

Mean, 


Degrees. 
. 91.00 
. 37-oo 

• 58.33 


September,  1887. 

Highest, 

Lowest, 

Mean, 


88.00 

29.00 
53-05 


June,  1888. 

Highest, 

Lowest 

Mean, 


83.00 

37.00 
54-64 


July,  1888. 

Highest 

Lowest, 

Mean 


95.00 

38.00 
64.07 


1889. 


Mean  Temperature  for 
Mean  Temperature  for 
Mean  Temperature  for 
Mean  Temperature  for 


Month  of  June,  . . 

Month  of  July,  . 
Mouth  of  August,  . 
Month  of  September, 


53-82 
63.06 
59-14 
5°  -*7 


I2j 


Porttyern  Pacific  Railroad. 


(Dbgo  Ydur  FRIENDS 

-a  DECIDE  TD  VISIT  k- 

Yellou/stope  par% 


Jl7e  paeifie  <?oast:, 

■y  .,or  /\lasl\a, 

CHAS.  S.  FEE, 

Advise  them  to  write  Gen>l  Pass,  and  Ticket  Agent  N.  P.  R.  R., 

ST.  PAUL,  MINN. 


FOR  RATES.  MAPS,  ILLUSTRATED 
PAMPHLETS,  ETC. 


124 


